tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76223475177695071152024-03-13T11:12:34.692-07:00ZPROPS Custom Prop-Replicaszanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-16786107490546127852017-03-10T15:46:00.000-08:002017-03-10T16:31:06.976-08:00Mass Effect Andromeda M-89 Halberd V Logitech Heavy rifle<span style="color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; font-size: 13px;">This is my second attempt at the M-96 Mattock heavy rifle from 2012. in 2017, it was revisited as the Halberd V, and both builds are consolidated here. It is a very long post, possibly my longest yet, so clear your schedule for this one. </span></span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/304_realsize.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">So for those of you who don't know, I built this guy already at 28.5 inches long. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">that particular gun had to be shipped to France, so I wasn't able to keep it. T</span><span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">his one however, will be made with molding in mind, is 31.5 inches long, and I actually get to keep it! (or two)</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I have to somehow top my last build:</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/6m96.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I started with the Scope. This one has a few details that my first one didnt have. Still needs knobs n' stuff. </span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0458.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Next was the main body. </span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0418121524.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Layering the body/grip, then dremeling the bevels. 60 grit sanding drum, then 60 grit hand sanded, and skipped to 320. This picture has a 120 grit drum on it, but it just burns the MDF and gunks up the drum. Had to switch to 60. </span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0419121317.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">bevel complete!</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0419121351.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">next layer, panel lines started</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0419121539.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I forgot a detail section above the trigger when I laminated that 1/8th inch layer of MDF. I had to use a box cutter and cut a 1/8th in section out, sand it, and install the panel.</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0419121725a.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">With that part on hold, I did the main nody side panels. this new gun is half swiss cheese. </span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0417121521.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">My scroll saw cuts and bevels are getting much cleaner. Might not even need filler on this build if I'm lucky! </span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0456.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Here's how I layered the MDF on the outer barrel</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0417121333.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0417121531.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0419121649.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">More on that later..</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Lower grip!</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0418121208.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0419122032.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I use my scroll saw to make risky cuts like this one because I usually cant find my hand tools buried in MDF scraps!</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/0420121205.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">using styrene for teeny tiny bevel details for where that cut went</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0443.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">This part has a double bevel half way down the top. one at 30 degees and one at 45.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">I layered styrene to preserve the detail in the otherswise soft MDF.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">More bevels and detail</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0446.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Lower grip skins. Those oval cuts were annoying!</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0448.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0449.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The almost complete grip assembly</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0455.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">All right, more progress on the body/stock:</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0469.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0476.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">And the painful trigger assembly. I had to make a bunch of styrene rectangles and...well I wont get into it. </span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0463.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0464.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Where this all goes:</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0465.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">This part had to be made in two layers:</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0459.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0461.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0462.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">The styrene is 1/8th inch thick, beveled at 30 degrees, etc. and is a quarter inch wide. Pain.</span><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Here is it installed on the outer barrel assembly (with some progress on the rounds, etc)</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0472.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Carrying handle progress</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0473.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">hollow, skinned with styrene on the bottom </span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0474.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">all together (ish)</span><br />
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<img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0471.jpg" style="color: #222222; cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;" /><br />
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<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Onward!<br /><br /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Turned some PVC down on a lathe. (yes, it smelled great!)</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I wanted the diameter exactly 1.5" like the plans. Yes, I'm picky ok?</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0488.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">While I was at it, I turned this too:</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0493.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">to make this</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0498.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then I could start the little cuts in the barrel. (made with a file and dremel. and patience)</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0494.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">and some other details</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0495.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then the grip. There was only so long I could put this off</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0499.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0501.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0500.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">breathe deep!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0502.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Little detail under the outer barrel</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0503.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Need a registration key at the front of the carrying handle, and a few small details. Then its ready for prime/prep!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0506.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I wanted some cool details that were true to the concept art so I embedded a little LED in the recess on each side. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0536.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then i used an aluminum oxide drum to sand out seats for the top side knobs.</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0535.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The knob is made out of MDF and a thumb tack. I knew I bought those for a reason....</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0537.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then the most hated part of any project begins...</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">First coat of filler primer on MDF. Yuck. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0540.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">light sand, second coat. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0541.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Moar stuff.</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0539.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The main body was pretty nasty too. Still havent touched bondo. (doing later..)</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0547.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Details:</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0543.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0545.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0544.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0542.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Still a LOT more sanding/priming//bondo to do, as well as a few half rounds near the carrying handle.</span><br /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Panel lines, plus that nasty intersection where the body and stock meet. I took care of it later.</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0548.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Graft complete! I seal this stuff by multiple coats of filler primer as well as sanding inbetween layers. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0551.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Another panel line. I just use a razor and sandpaper for these</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0554.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">little sling mount near the foregrip. we only use the best materials here at Zprops (sections of a safety pin for pinning)</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0557.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">installed</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0559.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Hours and hours of prep</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0560.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">New detail under the carrying handle. I like how it turned out</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0561.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Top detais. This section comes out for clean casting, as well as being able to dremel out whats underneath to install LEDs etc in the main body casting</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0562.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Its a really tight fit for the carrying handle to mount here. This is a good example of the registration keys throughout the build</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/DSCN0563.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /></span><br />
<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #f8f8f8; color: #222222; font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Special thanks to Matt Munson, Harrison Krix, and Eric Jarman for the molding tips. Of course, I had to put my Zprops spin on my molding method. Molding meets MDF, and it worked quite well. For my first molds ever, I'm quite pleased with these. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">First box mold half. No bubbles, etc!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0932.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Mold jacket for the mattock receiver. I blocked off the edges with foam core. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0933.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">then I coated it with vaseline and did two layers of fiberglass cloth. I did the same for the stock. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0934.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0936.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Heres the other half of that box mold being prepared. I have to make new walls out of foam core each time using my method, but its worth it to get perfectly flat "mold floor"</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0935.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Poured:</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0937.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">No clean up.</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0966.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I waited a few days for that box mold to be done before I did the rest, In case I did something horribly wrong. (although I de-gassed about 4 or 5 times for each batch of silicone. Kinda makes it hard to mess something up I guess)</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0967.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Prepping the other stuff. Did all the pink molds with 1 gal of mold max.</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0968.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0970.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">should I do a molding write up? I have a lot more pictures. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">second halves curing</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0971.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0973.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Back to the matrix mold. The jacket is flush with the silicone. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0974.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">same with the stock. I made a little clay barrier to stop the flow of silicone, and I know where to cut it for the mold jacket</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0975.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0979.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0976.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0981.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0980.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Busy Busy.</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0977.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br /><br /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Herp Derp!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0993.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0995.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN0999.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN1000.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN1009.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN1013.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN1015.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN1016.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/DSCN1018.jpg" style="cursor: default; font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pew Pew! I never got around to finishing my own V2 Mattock, but 5 years later this happened.</span><br /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">It's not over yet!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Mattock got a makeover for Mass Effect Andromeda. This version is called the Halbred V. So far, anyways. It can be seen very briefly in the exploration trailer. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="https://www.facebook.com/LogitechG/" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Logitech G</a><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> approached me and wanted three of their special kin variants done for Pax East 2017. With only about 15 working days, I got to work. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The receiver got the biggest change. The stock is almost three inches shorter. I dug up the old master from 2012 and got to hacking!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0674_zps8mdpehbp.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0674_zps8mdpehbp.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The "tail" is also shorter, so I had to hack that and make a new cap. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0676_zpsl0kgf4js.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0676_zpsl0kgf4js.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">There are new panel lines and details for this design. It had to be re-molded anyways, so I figured now s the time. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0679_zpsepjr4mfi.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0679_zpsepjr4mfi.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0680_zpswscpv9cx.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0680_zpswscpv9cx.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The screw insets I did as protrusions the first time around. This time, I wanted proper recessed details with the larger hex socket screws. I went around and did all 8 locations over by carefully dremeling out some MDF and insetting styrene. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0681_zpsecdhbrse.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0681_zpsecdhbrse.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Screw holes carefully drilled out and tapped</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0688_zpsgip60eli.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0688_zpsgip60eli.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Things really started picking up from here. I didn't have time to re-do the screw locations on the front of the gun. Instead, I spent the time on the scope and photo documentation started lacking. You can see the proportion differences here, and the scope now has a support , is also shorter, and has more details. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0687_zpsvjktrlur.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0687_zpsvjktrlur.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Molding!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0691_zpsoe0keipg.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0691_zpsoe0keipg.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0689_zpsxsto7nvd.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0689_zpsxsto7nvd.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0698_zps98m3fujm.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0698_zps98m3fujm.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0693_zpset3vzvpt.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0693_zpset3vzvpt.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I pulled a set of 3 casts, all in smooth-on anyx fast resin. The thinking here that I could leave the black parts black to slightly save time on painting and so that when the gun wears, since they will be handled a lot, it will scratch black instead of white or light grey. On theory, the grips , barrel tips, etc will never be needed to be touched up. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">All of the LED holding parts got sanded and routed for wiring before assembly. I ran some spare wiring through the gun and tied it off. I did this for all 8 LED locations. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0705_zpsvbfdc9bs.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0705_zpsvbfdc9bs.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0706_zps9m8llcqa.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0706_zps9m8llcqa.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The in game paint scheme called for a very very dark charcoal grey. So dark that you can barely see the contrast with the flat black grips. My contact at Logitech felt the gun had more of a dark blue base, so I settled for this grey which is lighter and has some blue tinge to it. Since it was lighter, I could do my trademark pigment weathering all over the place. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I also decided to go with a matte/satin finish, as it shows off the surface geometry a little better in the light, especially the grip/stock area. Anyways, this is before final weathering touches and metallics. You can see all of the wire ends tied in their locations for lighting. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0707_zpsaoj9ks5o.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0707_zpsaoj9ks5o.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The lights themselves had little clear inserts, with a teeny tiny hatch texture to them. In one of the stranger feats I've accomplished, I sanded the back of a screen window section and spray glued it to some sealed MDF. Then I made a mold of this panel, and cast it in some standard fast resin. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0699_zpshen3k6f0.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/IMG_0699_zpshen3k6f0.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I cut out the resin panel into some custom shapes perfectly sized for the recesses. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/0302171748_zpsynixtk7j.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/0302171748_zpsynixtk7j.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Then, I made a few molds of those, and poured some epoxacast clear resin with just a hair of blue tint. Once cured, I drilled out a hole behind the gems for some tiny 12v 3mm white LEDS. The wire routing I did earlier made this task drastically easier. The first however, was just too skinny. by having the LEDs face out for maximum brightness, they cant fit. the tail ends of the LEDS poke each other out of the gun sides. The only other way to light the front would be to hack off the front section like I did on the </span><a href="http://www.zprops.net/mass-effect-3-cerberus-harrier-assault-rifle.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank">Harrier</a><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">, make a custom light box, and re-seal and repaint the area on all three guns. This was a fast project, and just wasn't possible with the time and budget so the front lights had to be skipped. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The guns got magnets to hold the top half round detail in place, which was pinned through the scope as well. To change the battery or access the curcuit, all one has to do is pop off the scope/top panel with some light force. </span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/0306171852a_zpsfgiinshn.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/0306171852a_zpsfgiinshn.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The guns have individual serial numbers, too!</span><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/1m98LG_zpsvdyuccdb.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/1m98LG_zpsvdyuccdb.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/2m98LG_zpscoqip5rk.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/2m98LG_zpscoqip5rk.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/3m98LG_zpsne2udqqx.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/3m98LG_zpsne2udqqx.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/4m98LG_zpsbnxbhnwn.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/4m98LG_zpsbnxbhnwn.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/7m98LG_zpsv7errtdt.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/7m98LG_zpsv7errtdt.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/5m98LG_zps5e5dv1fc.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/5m98LG_zps5e5dv1fc.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/zanderwitaz/media/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/6m98LG_zpsq6z1i3ed.jpg.html" style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Mass%20Effect%20M96%20Mattock/6m98LG_zpsq6z1i3ed.jpg" style="cursor: default;" /></a><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><br style="font-family: "Open Sans", Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" /><span style="font-family: "open sans" , "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I'd like to thank Ryan Wells, Abby carter, Dani Yuan, Eric Jarman, Matt Munson, Eric Newgard, Michelle Chiang, and Harrison Krix for the help and/or advice on any of the versions of this gun since this gun's inception in 2012.</span></span>zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-78380609942047824432016-09-09T20:26:00.001-07:002016-09-13T13:14:45.641-07:00Team Fortress 2 Level 3 Sentry Gun<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ahh, the level 3 sentry gun. The holy grail of Team Fortress 2 props. It only took me about a decade to get around to....<br />
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Immediately after finishing the "level 1" sentry gun (I use "level one loosely as I look back on it somewhat unsatisfied with the proportions and scale, but more on that in another post) I went to work on the level three, which looks like this: </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/l3sentry_zps4tzikkdm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/l3sentry_zps4tzikkdm.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I paid slightly more attention to scale and proportions, but like my first version, ultimately didn't make any blueprints or anything. I just eyeballed it from a few screen shots.<br />
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I also didn't think 8 years ago people would be reading my blogs, so my photos are horrid on this project and are taken with a flip phone in a messy garage and/or bedroom up until a certain point. This sentry gun survived (Mostly) 5 moving trips during my time in college and right after. I refused to let it go, and was adamant about finishing it one day. When I say I'm going to do something, I do it. It might take me 8 years, but I do it dammit!<br />
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21 year old me started on the base, using the same materials and techniques as the previous sentry.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637209654645_3422702_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637209654645_3422702_n.jpg" width="488" /></a></div>
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I made the miniguns out of an MDF frame with lots of supports, and a thin wrap of styrene for the skin. Then the well for the ammo belt feed and other details and layering were made. I skimped on photos here. That, or they got lost long ago. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637209205545_949355_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637209205545_949355_n.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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It started looking imposing at this point, especially at low angles. TMI. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637209210535_2177377_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637209210535_2177377_n.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Like the previous build, the canister was made out of a polypropylene trash can. Glue and paint doesn't stick to it particularly well, so it needed a lot of sanding and reinforcements to bite the paint and glue. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637925006075_1052932_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/2659_637925006075_1052932_n.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The missile pod was made from sheet styrene, as well as the support arms and shroud around the canister. This all had to be as light as humanly possible as the design is not only back heavy, but that little support arm is made from MDF... not the strongest stuff in the world. Not to mention it would later be supporting thick cables, a few layers of sealing and paint, plus the giant ammo belts that plug into the back end. The "holes" for the missiles are solo cups. I wasn't exactly the worlds wealthiest 21 year old, and this whole project only cost me around 100-200 bucks in the end in raw materials. That's about $2.08 in sentry gun monthly payments over 8 years. I can live with that. People do dumber things with their coin....</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/19569_708367798155_4462022_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/19569_708367798155_4462022_n.jpg" width="464" /></a><br />
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Getting a little bit ahead of myself, I began to seal and paint everything. Which, could have been worse since it sat like this for years. </div>
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN0143.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN0143.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Then after school I found myself on the move quite a bit. During one of the last moves, I left the miniguns in my hatchback during the summer. They baked in the car and were in direct sunlight for at least a day. Styrene as you might know is a thermoplastic, and warps considerably in high temperatures. One of the skins on the cannons became warped to high heaven. the other less so, but noticeable still. I ripped the un-salvageable one apart. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2517_zps6vcegfgo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2517_zps6vcegfgo.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I had forgotten how tough I made these. It didn't just de-laminate at the frame like I was hoping. The parts supporting the styrene were everywhere, and as a result everything broke to some degree when taking it off. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2516_zpsqfxpx4ap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2516_zpsqfxpx4ap.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Even though it wasn't as bad as it looks, it still took me half a day to salvage what I could without remaking the whole thing, which I was quite happy with considering if one of those supports was off or the circles weren't concentric, the whole thing would wrap together nicely and be structurally or cosmetically sound enough. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2518_zpsf8o8unfp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2518_zpsf8o8unfp.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I used thicker styrene this time, so the heat wouldn't distort it. At least in my state's temperature range. A bit more fussy to do, but worth the peace of mind. I taped it in place and let the glue dry. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2521_zpslpmuu3oi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2521_zpslpmuu3oi.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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I cut the hole for the frame mount. Its harder than it looks, because if the hole is too small, it obviously won't sit. If the hole is too big, or crooked, a gap might show and there is no way to patch it and still preserve the curvature that is supposed to be there. I simply marked and measured, using masking tape edges as guides. Great success. Is nice. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2520_zpsfz1ehiou.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2520_zpsfz1ehiou.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I caked on some wood glue and hopefully it will last many years. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2519_zpshtqoe2f9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2519_zpshtqoe2f9.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The holes for the magazine well was much easier to measure and cut. After copying the other gun, I glued the salvage magwell on top of the new skin and cut out the hole. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2522_zpsk7k3e7t7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2522_zpsk7k3e7t7.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Welcome home, you 8 year old piece of MDF.</div>
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2523_zpsovkth8ya.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2523_zpsovkth8ya.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I once again had non-distorted miniguns! The other side needed moderate filling and sanding to preserve.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2524_zps5mq0z9t8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2524_zps5mq0z9t8.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I skimped on photos for the rear most legs. Surprised? Anyways, this was kind of a pain. I didnt want to just use a plate or a saucer. The feet in game have a very angled but subtle look to them. I cut one out on a scroll saw, adjusted it as needed, and made a bunch of copies. I did some half-assed math to do this, but more than anything I'm pretty sure I just got lucky that it all fit together. The inside circle doesn't matter since its getting cut out for a PVC coupling. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2532_zpshtavrenu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2532_zpshtavrenu.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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New guns mounted, new feet taking shape.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2543_zpsijw2wiwy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2543_zpsijw2wiwy.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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These rear legs....were a complete pain. No amount of screenshots could give me the correct angles at which they meet. They are kinked on at least 3 axis' and nothing is perfectly horizontal or vertical to reference off of. It took a lot of temporary gluing and real world fitting/frustration to get these right. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2552_zpsrbbvdhyr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2552_zpsrbbvdhyr.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Time to paint (Again) and make some ammo belts! Before I forget, Those rings on the barrel are made from 1/2 inch MDF. Except for the white ones, which are styrene to keep the weight down. 21 year old me didn't own a hand drill, and certainly not a drill press. They were ALL drafted by hand and cut by hand on a scroll saw. It was a ton of work. The styrene holes were sanded out with a dremel. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2558_zps4cnsmy1w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2558_zps4cnsmy1w.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Not only was the old paint showing its age, but the company that make the paint doesn't offer it any more so the new parts wouldn't have matched. It all got sanded, primed, and painted. Again. Which is a few days of work by itself. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2563_zpsqep38bem.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2563_zpsqep38bem.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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The ammo belts were hastily made from EVA foam, and were the only rushed part of this build. I wanted to get it ready for a local convention, called Silicon Valley Comic Con. Do I need to mention for the Nth time that I didn't take pictures?</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2567_zpsurxp0nnv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/DSCN2567_zpsurxp0nnv.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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The results are nothing short of spectacular. Not only is this fun to have at a convention, but this bad boy greets guests in my living room. Every day. So worth it. </div>
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Photo by Asian Treehouse Studios.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/13340193_10209542656064737_237447789422617224_o_zpsps2rw5qj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/13340193_10209542656064737_237447789422617224_o_zpsps2rw5qj.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/IMG_6297_zpsmoouetst.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="612" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/IMG_6297_zpsmoouetst.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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Photo by<a href="https://www.facebook.com/neekocosplay/"> Neeko Cosplay Photography</a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/13332841_1015810155162915_2298618003702461916_n_zps0bblgx8e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/13332841_1015810155162915_2298618003702461916_n_zps0bblgx8e.jpg" width="426" /></a><br />
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Photo by Kiel of <a href="https://www.facebook.com/KairuPhotography/">Kairu Photography</a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/i-vdgrRHT-XL_zpsc0phua52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/i-vdgrRHT-XL_zpsc0phua52.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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I entered a costume contest for my first time. I wore my soldier costume instead of my engineer, and brought the sentry.... </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/1024x1024_zpswmnwqpmn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="466" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/1024x1024_zpswmnwqpmn.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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The result was my first award! hooray!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/svccaward_zpssb00uiug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Level%203%20Sentry/svccaward_zpssb00uiug.jpg" width="480" /></a><br />
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Yeah, I don't think I can top that, but this isn't the end of my sentry gun builds...</div>
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-164852105750554152016-01-08T14:58:00.000-08:002016-01-08T15:01:34.882-08:00Destiny Phaeton Class Jumpship V1.1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After Completing the V2 jumpship last year, it only made sense to make the winged version. This was a pretty popular design, and was one of the only designs released before the game came out. Also, It was mold/cast friendly so naturally it had to be done.</div>
<br /><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/Phaeton_Class_V11_zps1qasbuug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/Phaeton_Class_V11_zps1qasbuug.jpg" height="330" width="640" /></a><br />
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The build is mostly based off the previous sculpt, my first ever to utilize a 3d printed part. <a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2015/07/destiny-phaeton-class-jumpship-v2.html" style="font-weight: bold;">Read that one here. </a><br />
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First thing, the wings. These screamed "styrene" so thats what I made them out of. Same old story, I cut them out with scissors, scribed panel lines with an exacto knife and saw, and laminated materials as needed.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_173554922_zpsbaxn7oky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_173554922_zpsbaxn7oky.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_175250265_zpsrzhoj1gz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_175250265_zpsrzhoj1gz.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The most important part is cutting out sections and scribing <i>before</i> you glue them together. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_192646448_zpsahujdfb3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_192646448_zpsahujdfb3.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_205524513_zpsqotquqzy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_205524513_zpsqotquqzy.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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This was all for one wing, which was symmetrical at the time. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_222802979_zps7c1kx6s3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151003_222802979_zps7c1kx6s3.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I then made a mold (not pictured) and cast out another one. Then I modified the bottom halves of each cast to more closely match the reference. I didn't want to scratch build both wings.<br />
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The fuselage isn't quite the same between the v1 and v2, so I had to sand a lot of detail off, and sand some harder angles on certain sections. I started with blank styrene. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151005_165931681_zpshx5fpzxa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151005_165931681_zpshx5fpzxa.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I carefully built up the detail. unfortunately, the modules on the original are so detailed and tiny that I had to simplify some bits in this area, which is saying something because its still fairly detailed as is. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151006_115908900_zpstmhgacfe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151006_115908900_zpstmhgacfe.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The wings sit at about 15 degrees, so after they were done I made a mold, cast them up, and glued them to the new body!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151006_124507300_zpsnmhmwczl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151006_124507300_zpsnmhmwczl.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I made an MDF jig as usual, clayed it up, and got ready for goop!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151210_142659908_zps3hxtbbqx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151210_142659908_zps3hxtbbqx.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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After pouring both sides of the mold, I had my first cast! The cast uses exactly 4oz of resin for the whole thing. Its the smallest/lightest kit I've made to date. Considering that these are not vacuum degassed/pressure cast, I am extremely proud of the results. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151214_110428013_zpspyolguyh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151214_110428013_zpspyolguyh.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151214_110533842_zpsecjr6na7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/IMG_20151214_110533842_zpsecjr6na7.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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And some painted variations:</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/4Phaetonv1_zpsj748ttqo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/4Phaetonv1_zpsj748ttqo.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/1Phaetonv1_zpsig5lm91u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/1Phaetonv1_zpsig5lm91u.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/3Phaetonv1_zpsa16rbsmq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/3Phaetonv1_zpsa16rbsmq.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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I made an early version outfitted with BKR guns for my friend Eric to paint. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/5Phaetonv11_zpsnuux852x.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton%20jumpship%20v1/5Phaetonv11_zpsnuux852x.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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Build your own for purchase <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZpropsEtsy">here. </a></b>Thanks for following along!<br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-72745792418759192602015-08-26T22:46:00.000-07:002015-08-26T22:50:06.548-07:00Starcraft II Terran SCV<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Every command center needs at least 6 of these....So, I set out....to make at least 6!<br />
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Reference image from some....random...source. </div>
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<a href="http://media-curse.cursecdn.com/attachments/24/197/9d39df2df35bc8488739da4af49ed8fe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://media-curse.cursecdn.com/attachments/24/197/9d39df2df35bc8488739da4af49ed8fe.jpg" height="590" width="640" /></a><br />
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I started out in digital and used the StarCraft 2 Map editor to drop some SCVs at various angles around a command center model. I accounted for distortion and dropped it into a photoshop file, using rulers to make my measurements and scale relative to the command center I was already building.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/scvscale_zpslio0b97o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/scvscale_zpslio0b97o.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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I started with the intakes above the engines. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2012_zpsebqrheis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2012_zpsebqrheis.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I carefully cut out some tiny strips and inset them as grills. I also began drafting and cutting paneling for the legs/feet. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2014_zpsylan9pyn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2014_zpsylan9pyn.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The feet were completed by simply taking my time and layering up styrene, bit by bit, edge to edge.<br />
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The panels in front of the engines were made by adding styrene atop a 1/8th inch piece of beveled MDF. I had these three parts done fairly quickly!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2016_zpsis2i96dg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2016_zpsis2i96dg.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The "claw" was made from beveled MDF as well, with styrene between layers to produce a panel line look. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130611_123416_116_zpsysydrubs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130611_123416_116_zpsysydrubs.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I glued down some teeny styrene bits to this MDF part before cutting out the general shape of the forearm. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130611_160712_878_zpsvgo7cmff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130611_160712_878_zpsvgo7cmff.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I had to to this twice, as well as make the side panels. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130611_174418_041_zpsmyozi1pm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130611_174418_041_zpsmyozi1pm.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I used more or less the same techniques to build the cockpit and upper arm.<br />
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Here are the parts so far, primed and sanded. I don't have progress pictures of the drill, but the spiral part is simply half round styrene that I got warm and bent it around a wooden cone my friend turned on his lathe.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2042_zpsh8wvqarq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2042_zpsh8wvqarq.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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I cast up some engine intake copies, and added a lip around them to make them specific to their respective sides, rather than sculpt them both individually. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2045_zpsnuoj5nrr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2045_zpsnuoj5nrr.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Then I cast the rest of the parts, which made other parts easier to size and make assemblies of, to be cast again. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130622_181317_855_zpsu3w2arxr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130622_181317_855_zpsu3w2arxr.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Before everything went together, the exhaust had to be made and cast. The cone was shaped by cutting out a hexagon, and then planing down the angles on a belt sander.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2043_zpscyblluoo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2043_zpscyblluoo.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The exhaust fin is three layers of styrene, cut down the middle, then re-glued at an angle and sanded smooth.<br />
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They got cast, and the centers got bored out for future lighting attempts. Those fins are a real pain to cast!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2050_zpsoqu0eisc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2050_zpsoqu0eisc.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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With all of that prototyping out of the way, I could start trading in my minerals for more SCVs....<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130809_154718_896_zpsxyomjdd9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130809_154718_896_zpsxyomjdd9.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130809_203459_287_zpsvewlohzp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/IMG_20130809_203459_287_zpsvewlohzp.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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One of the casts got special treatment, and received some ABS/PVC joints out of some old Gundam action figures. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2049_zpsyejd1plv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2049_zpsyejd1plv.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The base color is "colonial red" which is more of a red with a hint of grey, and looks more serious than most reds out of a spray can.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2105_zpstjmahjxu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2105_zpstjmahjxu.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Theres quite a bit of grey variance going on here, and the cockpit was painted metallic like the game with some pre-shading and light weathering all around. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2110_zpsmkfoe7iy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2110_zpsmkfoe7iy.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The claw and mid-section is probably the most fun to paint up. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2108_zpst6qsrrqf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2108_zpst6qsrrqf.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lastly again, the exhaust tips. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2107_zps75l3ukx3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2107_zps75l3ukx3.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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All done! expect more of these and a photoshoot down the road. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2113_zpshj1u4jj6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SC2%20Terran%20SCV/DSCN2113_zpshj1u4jj6.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-81963841761353487282015-07-20T18:29:00.001-07:002015-07-20T22:15:51.203-07:00Destiny Phaeton Class Jumpship V2With the sheer amount of hand cannons I had been churning out since January, I decided I needed a change of pace. I decided to make a small set of jumpships from the Destiny universe, in a 5-6 inch scale much like the deluxe micro machine star wars vehicles from back in the day.<br />
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The ones that caught my attention were the aspect of glass, the kestrel class ships, and the phaeton class ships. With the kestrel class chassis being smaller and more complex, I started with the other two, which had similar engines anyways that I could share on both ship types. I began to make both ships, side by side, starting with engines from the "Aspect of Glass".<br />
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I got about 90% of the chassis done, but then decided I wanted to finish the phaeton class chassis first. The Phaeton engines would have been relatively easy to sculpt, but a complete pain to cast/replicate. The resulting ship is a hybrid of the two. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton_Class_v2_zpsbdyif6bk.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/Phaeton_Class_v2_zpsbdyif6bk.png" height="318" width="640" /></a><br />
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I started off cutting out the tiny styrene bits for the engines.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150125_233753_208_zpsrg7i5uck.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150125_233753_208_zpsrg7i5uck.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Some of these layers are fairly thick, so I had to laminate certain thicknesses together to get a "stepping" effect between panels. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150123_201352_564_zps8plvgs94.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150123_201352_564_zps8plvgs94.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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When I had two sets, I carefully assembled them with super glue.<br />
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Details were added, and all beveling on the corners were done carefully with an Exacto knife. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150123_221200_569_zpsvbsgcchf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150123_221200_569_zpsvbsgcchf.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Unfortunately, the intakes and details weren't symmetrical so I didn't bother casting one engine any trying to modify one into the opposite side. I simply just built them both up.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150125_224049_324_zps9oc65fcj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150125_224049_324_zps9oc65fcj.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150125_234516_219_zpsvv8ywold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150125_234516_219_zpsvv8ywold.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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It was a tedious but rewarding process.<br />
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This little intake scoop goes between the engine and the pylon, and I even beveled the tiny insert that sits deep inside. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150126_163735_252_zpsestyrkzc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150126_163735_252_zpsestyrkzc.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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For the final touch, I added the remaining panels and fins! Its so cute and tiny. </div>
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For the first time, I decided to try and build upon a 3D print. Well, I guess it technically isn't the first time since I did that for the <b><a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2015/04/destiny-hawkmoon-exotic-hand-cannon.html">Hawkmoon</a></b>, but that was built off someone else's work and I certainly hadn't planned it from the get-go. This one would be all me and have my name on it<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150206_195712_957_zpsospa9nfe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150206_195712_957_zpsospa9nfe.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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I purchased this 3D print off someone on Etsy, which is just a two part print from the low poly game file. I could have spent a year trying to sand it down to perfection, Or I could do the sensible thing and hack off the side engines, cut the chassis in two, hack off the bottom engines, and cast the thing in resin to get it out of PLA as fast as humanly possible.<br />
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This is how I oriented the parts, then I poured silicone. I didn't take pictures, and you're not missing much, The molds were quick and terrible, meant only for 1 pour. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150207_122453_839_zpstvazns6r.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150207_122453_839_zpstvazns6r.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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One of the side "gills" was deformed from printing so I re-make it in styrene, as well as the other nose panels and scribed some details. </div>
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I continued on, using different thicknesses of styrene.<br />
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I got excited and did a test fit with the engine, and primed it up. </div>
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There are "Modules" that go in front of the rear tails, one is pictured here. It was scratch built in styrene, later to be mold/cast. The Tails were resurfaced with some crisp styrene detail. Molding it would ensure I wouldn't have to make the same piece twice (Everyone hates that..) as well as good symmetry. </div>
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<br />There are two inset triangular sections at the mid-section of the ship that I wanted to re-make. Thankfully the Aspect of Glass chassis I made earlier had these same details on them.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150129_194718_223_zps9nwxzqqh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150129_194718_223_zps9nwxzqqh.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I used some clay and made a dam around the details, and made tiny silicone molds of the area.<br />
When they cured, I flipped them over, made a dam around the mold bits, and poured some resin. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150529_150751_858_zpst3hi6zqw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150529_150751_858_zpst3hi6zqw.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I continued with the styrene at the fins, and inset one of the cast details in place of the old one. The original one on the right was ok, but they left side had been nearly sanded out completely from getting rid of the 3D print texture.<br />
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Another important thing in this photo are the modules towards the top. The one on the left is the styrene made master, the darker one on the right was cast from a teeny tiny silicone mold. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150529_152917_298_zpsku3cmkpc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150529_152917_298_zpsku3cmkpc.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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I clayed up the engine for molding, and poured the silicone. Possibly the smallest two part mold I've made to date!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150603_132511_722_zpsedf9m6ym.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150603_132511_722_zpsedf9m6ym.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The chassis got the same treatment, but first I had to re-make the engines on the underside, add panel lines and plating everywhere, and clean up the entire bottom half. I didn't take pictures, but the master is on the left, and the first cast is on the right. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150619_180133_879_zpsuktmq9rz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150619_180133_879_zpsuktmq9rz.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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First test assembly:</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150606_161412_487_zpscbwhhlhs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/IMG_20150606_161412_487_zpscbwhhlhs.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I prepped up a few ships for painting and put down the base colors.<br />
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A few days later I had a fleet!<br />
I made the stand fairly quickly out of MDF, I'll end up molding that shortly too.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/10phaeton_zpsiu8bysh4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/10phaeton_zpsiu8bysh4.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/11Phaeton_zps0btuzcak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/11Phaeton_zps0btuzcak.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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Thanks for reading!<br />
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Want a jumpship of your own? I'll have resin kits in the <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZpropsEtsy">store </a></b>soon.<br />
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Still not sure how big/little these guys are? Scale insert <b><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Phaeton%20jumpship/phaetonquarter_zpsum5rlos8.jpg">here. </a></b></div>
zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-57789295807770459442015-06-05T00:26:00.003-07:002015-07-11T11:05:35.920-07:00Destiny Fatebringer Legendary Hand Cannon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Delivering the inevitable. One photo at a time.<br />
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One of the main reasons I chose the<b><a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2015/03/destiny-hand-cannon-devil-you-know-duke.html" target="_blank"> standard hand cannon</a></b> as my first destiny piece was so I could make this down the line:<br />
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<a href="http://40.media.tumblr.com/941910564f4d53d2a4ebe27b3047ef6f/tumblr_nlgk0l8VSU1u9bf33o1_1280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://40.media.tumblr.com/941910564f4d53d2a4ebe27b3047ef6f/tumblr_nlgk0l8VSU1u9bf33o1_1280.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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With most of the work done, all I had to do is make the accessories, the new sight, and alternate cylinder. This went pretty quick and there's not much to show. The paint job took almost as long as making the parts. It still took some time, and its a good thing House of Wolves came out to refresh some of the specs of older legendarys like this one in game. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_011230_195_zpsp6mcbyz0.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_011230_195_zpsp6mcbyz0.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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More MDF. I used styrene as a substitute for thinner pieces that couldn't be sourced in MDF. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_122948_672_zps35q0zj4o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_122948_672_zps35q0zj4o.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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This piece was not turned, each semi-circle was cut out by hand on a scroll saw and glued in perpendicular to the base. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_132807_828_zpsucqoaxmi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_132807_828_zpsucqoaxmi.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The grooves on the face were made my attaching some pieces of styrene to my dremel and shaping them with an exacto while it spun. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_165941_739_zps8nkdxzhs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_165941_739_zps8nkdxzhs.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_141002_032_zpsmda8pxdf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_141002_032_zpsmda8pxdf.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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The beveled insert for the cylinder was scratch built out of really thin styrene. I gouged out a recess for it in one of the grooves and did a test fit. Happy with the look, I made a simple open faced mold and cast 5 copies. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150207_144728_955_zpsvyvvznfa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150207_144728_955_zpsvyvvznfa.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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With the 5 casts and the master, I dremeled out the cylinder and installed all of them,</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150215_162542_220_zpsa4lfirbt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150215_162542_220_zpsa4lfirbt.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I filled the grooves with bondo and scraped off the excess with a piece of styrene that matched the inverted profile of the cylinder edge. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150215_174514_778_zpsnaw9ygvl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150215_174514_778_zpsnaw9ygvl.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Since the swing arm was already installed on this cast, I had to go back with styrene to make the angular look on top of the old one. I went back and added/drilled out details later. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_154448_729_zps00n6bl5u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_154448_729_zps00n6bl5u.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The rear sight was just...kinda...made.. I didn't really document this part that is about the size of a fingertip. The little tube on the left is aluminum that I bent and embedded in the body of the sight out of fear of it breaking off easily. The original grey sight on the right was completely dremeled off of the cast. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_193610_720_zpslmvsn0cs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150203_193610_720_zpslmvsn0cs.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I did a test fit on the cast body which was painted by carefully dusting "aged copper" over a "metallic walnut (Or chestnut? I cant remember) base. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150331_200930_401_zpskajz9ix7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150331_200930_401_zpskajz9ix7.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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And some careful painting/distressing ends up with this:<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/4fate_zpsbh4horuq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/4fate_zpsbh4horuq.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/2fate_zps2pr5lsmf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/2fate_zps2pr5lsmf.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/3fate_zpsesrzsx3w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/3fate_zpsesrzsx3w.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/5fate_zpsirw1hgee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/5fate_zpsirw1hgee.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/1fate_zpsddy5wqf7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/1fate_zpsddy5wqf7.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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Boom. Headshot.<br /><br />
Interested in a resin kit of this prop? <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZpropsEtsy" target="_blank"><b>you can grab one here.</b> </a><br />
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Daily WIP photos on<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank"> <b>Facebook. </b></a><br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-87908112969208863162015-05-06T14:13:00.002-07:002015-05-06T14:29:30.795-07:00Mass Effect 3 Cerberus Harrier Assault Rifle <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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With the V2 M-96 Mattock molds completed back in 2012, it was only natural to give one of its cousins a shot, and this would look great with my <b><a href="http://www.zprops.net/?page_id=73" target="_blank">hornet smg build.</a></b> I started and completed this personal build in 2013 but never got around to a photoshoot or a full write up.<br />
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Reference from Troodon80 via Deviantart. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/mass_effect_3__mp_cerberus_harrier_ref__by_troodon80-d57kyzz_zpshtgjhpyl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/mass_effect_3__mp_cerberus_harrier_ref__by_troodon80-d57kyzz_zpshtgjhpyl.jpg" height="456" width="640" /></a><br />
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This build would have been a lot more work if I didn't have an <b><a href="http://www.zprops.net/?page_id=16" target="_blank">M96 mattock resin kit</a></b> to start with. Although, every piece had to be significantly altered or rebuilt from scratch. The only piece that went unchanged is the upper outer barrel.<br />
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It helps to have half of this build technically finished already. I started with a kit that had a bit of sagging on one side of the receiver. This was perfect because I had to cut out most of the receiver sides anyways.<br />
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I drafted out the areas that had to go. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1436_zps3cu28eyc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1436_zps3cu28eyc.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I used the circular cutting bit. It created a lot of resin dust and vapor, so a respirator was a MUST. Angling the disk and being patient allows you to do some pretty surprising cuts. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1437_zpsjb5clrsj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1437_zpsjb5clrsj.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1440_zpswinefbm1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1440_zpswinefbm1.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I began making the new edges out of MDF strips</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1463_zpsijx0sfxl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1463_zpsijx0sfxl.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I hacked off a few more areas and kept going. Its much better to "frame" these areas rather then dry and do it all with bondo. Also I needed this prop as hollow as possible.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1464_zpsfnbxy8ku.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1464_zpsfnbxy8ku.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The tip of the receiver is almost completely different, as well as the "tail". More hacking for that. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1461_zpsaoyktkdu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1461_zpsaoyktkdu.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1472_zps7jdnbfzh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1472_zps7jdnbfzh.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1473_zpslsldsvbx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1473_zpslsldsvbx.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The tail extensions had to be glued perfectly straight or it would show up as an obvious error when the shiny paint came on. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1474_zpsd8ubndjq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1474_zpsd8ubndjq.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Next I cut out a center channel in the stock, and hacked off the butt plate as well. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1434_zpsco3yerlr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1434_zpsco3yerlr.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Its important to make notes on your parts so you know what direction to glue them. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1444_zps7kihj7x7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1444_zps7kihj7x7.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1445_zpszxa8fxm1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1445_zpszxa8fxm1.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I lost a tiny but of thickness/rigidity to the butt plate when I cut it off, so I spend en extra few minutes making new parts. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1446_zpsrevtjbna.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1446_zpsrevtjbna.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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With the stock mostly completed, I checked the geometry against the tail and cut an ABS pipe to shape. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1475_zpsgkldfxzp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1475_zpsgkldfxzp.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I used the same technique up top and salved some of the resin bits I hacked off earlier. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1478_zpstlsp1d7m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1478_zpstlsp1d7m.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Jumping around a bit. The lower outer barrel had its front and top bits hacked off. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1435_zpspzzodcor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1435_zpspzzodcor.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">I made some MDF bits for it. </span></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1443_zpswpbtpkeh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1443_zpswpbtpkeh.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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More MDF, more styrene. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1450_zpstawxt82o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1450_zpstawxt82o.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I made the sides of the carrying handle as multi-layered, flat parts. Then I hacked them up to glue at an angle. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1455_zpssx4fuw2u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1455_zpssx4fuw2u.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The back half tapered gently. The front has a few angled bends in it and is much more complicated. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1456_zpsooahexz5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1456_zpsooahexz5.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I had to get this tapered bit the perfect angle and perfectly symmetrical or the carrying handle wouldn't line up. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1459_zps07gtymkj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1459_zps07gtymkj.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The tip of the carrying handle doesn't taper much at all. Heres a comparison with the mattock carrying handle. They are completely different and don't share any parts/sections at all. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1460_zpskb33blyo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1460_zpskb33blyo.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I cut out notches in a layer of 1/4" MDF. Then I laminated it to another layer, and beveled the sides. The result is this, if you measured right. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1466_zpsykmmmd8f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1466_zpsykmmmd8f.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I did another, similar part for the back half of the carrying handle. The whole thing is hollow, light, and rigid. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1468_zpsahuvoz1s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1468_zpsahuvoz1s.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Loosely taking shape with a test fit. Now that the main sections have been blocked out, it was time for some fine tuning. Somehow, this thing is even more massive than the Mattock. Which is already ridiculously huge.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1476_zpsbrueypvw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1476_zpsbrueypvw.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></div>
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Since a large channel in the top of the receiver was cut out for electronics, it was easier for me to back the sides of the receiver so that I could glue some MDF bits in there to hold up the bondo that was about to be smeared everywhere. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1481_zpszxr9zoc9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1481_zpszxr9zoc9.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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All of that body work paying off. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1482_zpshtmecfut.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1482_zpshtmecfut.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The flash hiders were made from taking two of the Mattock's upper barrel ones and hacking the tips off. Then, these circular cut bits got laminated into shape. I later drilled out the tips for LED lighting. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1479_zpsyuvbf77m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1479_zpsyuvbf77m.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Another test fit with one of the flash hiders being almost completed. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1484_zpsg5gli5ro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1484_zpsg5gli5ro.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I went back and cut out some of the receiver sides for these MDF inserts. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1486_zpso8glzamr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1486_zpso8glzamr.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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After being blended and primed, I backed the inside with some styrene detail. Then I added some strips of clear polyethylene that had been sanded to 400 grit to diffuse the LED lighting. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1496_zpsvava6jqt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1496_zpsvava6jqt.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1501_zpsxpuvwc4e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1501_zpsxpuvwc4e.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I masked off the LED sensitive areas and did some more filling/priming. Coming right along, you'd lever guess this used to be a Mattock. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1487_zpsqxrczdse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1487_zpsqxrczdse.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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This section isnt lit in the game art, but I didn't care and wanted to light it. It was a problem though, since there was no accessibility. I hacked off the tip, and dremeled the inside of the walls until they were relatively flat and about 1/4" thick. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1488_zps6ffz5qih.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1488_zps6ffz5qih.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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I didn't have the energy or the room to fit 4 LEDs pointing outward in there, so I did two facing up with foil everywhere to bounce the light where I wanted it to go. I also had to include holes and wiring for the barrel tip to be lit. Special thanks to my friend Derick for helping me out with this electronics mess!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1492_zps1xd9lshd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1492_zps1xd9lshd.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1493_zpspltvxpn9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1493_zpspltvxpn9.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">I sealed up the bit I had just hacked off, and continued to install these all around the gun. Somehow. There's only two circuits in there, so if something burns out I'm pretty screwed. </span></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1503_zps7myzikgs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1503_zps7myzikgs.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1490_zpsqmodcfwe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1490_zpsqmodcfwe.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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The rule of camera phones: The worse your camera is, the better the LED's look. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1498_zpscw1pnjhs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/DSCN1498_zpscw1pnjhs.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a><br />
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Home stretch!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/IMG_20130422_212936_634_zpszjjzs9ii.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/IMG_20130422_212936_634_zpszjjzs9ii.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Pew Pew! Thanks Eric for touching these up. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/1harrier_zpslelg6ui6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/1harrier_zpslelg6ui6.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/2harrier_zpslbkb54rv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/2harrier_zpslbkb54rv.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/3harrier_zpstjz2moxy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/3harrier_zpstjz2moxy.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/5harrier_zpsfwqouh8o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/5harrier_zpsfwqouh8o.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/4harrier_zpsgdk1yid7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/M96%20Mattock%20V2/Cerberus%20Harrier/4harrier_zpsgdk1yid7.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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For humanity!<br />
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<a href="http://www.zprops.net/" target="_blank"><b>More stuff here. </b></a><br />
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Thanks guys!<br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-77523828926244608352015-04-14T15:36:00.002-07:002015-06-14T22:57:54.176-07:00Destiny Hawkmoon Exotic Hand Cannon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This orphan showed up in a basket at my doorstep in March. It began its life as a digital file which was commissioned by Eric from <a href="http://www.impactcustoms.com/" target="_blank">Impact Props. </a><b> </b>I'm not sure who the digital modeler was. From there it was born on Eric's personal printer, and the journey began.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16141627837_b73a1181bb_b_zpshycgb7c1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16141627837_b73a1181bb_b_zpshycgb7c1.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
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It was sanded, primed, and coasted with XTC-3D until something reasonable was obtained. I commend Eric for doing all of this work, as I certainly don't have the patience to. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16140137280_b1248f6653_b_zpsks0ojjub.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16140137280_b1248f6653_b_zpsks0ojjub.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
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From there, all of the bits with the exception of the grip section were block molded. This is the fastest and most expensive way to make a mold. They are easy to work with, don't tear as fast, absorb heat better, and do not deform unlike other types of molds. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16301579226_b74c103d1a_b_zpsafqosibl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16301579226_b74c103d1a_b_zpsafqosibl.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Eric is a big fan of coating the mold in aluminum powder, which gives it a thin metallic coating that you can use to enhance the paint job on your prop. The cast part looks like this, and if you don't do much sanding or care about the seam lines that much, you can pretty much leave it as is and paint around it. </span></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16325738131_0a55d203a2_b_zps2ibvixle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/16325738131_0a55d203a2_b_zps2ibvixle.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is a matrix mold that Eric made for the grip. I'm not sure why he opted for a matrix mold for this piece. I'm guessing he was running low on silicone and didn't have enough for a box mold. The jacket is made from a product called free form air. <br />
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Unfortunately, the mold leaks. I cant say why, as I wasn't there when the first cast was attempted. I cleaned off all the resin that was stuck to the jacket material and relocated the pour spot to the bottom of the claw. I blocked off (mostly...) the original pour spout that was more towards the sights. This made the delicate sight detail reside at the bottom of the mold and ensured they were filled first and properly. This is the first pull I got. It looks like the mold could be used again, but it had served its purpose at this point, never to be used again. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150325_161444_393_zpseqsoebkh.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150325_161444_393_zpseqsoebkh.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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Here are all of the parts in a test fit. All I've really done here is clean the seam lines. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150325_180446_078_zpss2tx7nrc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150325_180446_078_zpss2tx7nrc.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I had to decide at this point what path I wanted to take. I could either do some light clean up and then re-mold the grip area as a block mold for production casting...or I could clean up and re-work half of the gun like the deranged lunatic I am.<br />
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I chose the latter. I first re-made the circular ribbed front of the flashlight which you can actually see in the picture at this point if you look carefully. Then I cut off everything that was going to be re-made by hand, and fused the lower "flashlight" piece to the barrel section. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_182708_762_zpsup7vhbnf.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_182708_762_zpsup7vhbnf.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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This certainly isn't meant to be an insult to anyone's work. No matter how good the file was, or how good the clean up was, the reality is detail is going to be lost, sanded flat, or heavily softened unless days are spent rebuilding the problem areas in bondo or some material that makes the whole project not worth printing in the first place. Luckily, instead of sanding PLA (Which I hate, passionately) I get to sand resin, which takes sanding, glue, and paint much better than PLA and cuts the prep time into a fraction. Although, this project still took a solid week to do.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_144749_725_zpsrujvvxnq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_144749_725_zpsrujvvxnq.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">I started with the top rail. It needed some crisp detail back, some detail holes, and some important ribs that space the rear sights. The modeler made the original sights too narrow and a hair undersized. I kept the assembly tab portion intact, which is why there is a seemingly random resin section in the middle of the styrene rail. </span></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150328_162903_794_zpscs8jzmry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150328_162903_794_zpscs8jzmry.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The sights were made by carefully cutting out layers of styrene with an exacto and laminating them together. It was tedious, but well worth the effort. I threw in a couple of rivets for detail. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_170755_499_zpsjgfdh5gl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_170755_499_zpsjgfdh5gl.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I cleaned up some of the inset detail as well, like this upside down trapezoid right under the rail. I used an exacto, steady hand, and patience. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150328_180558_434_zpsuwp43nys.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150328_180558_434_zpsuwp43nys.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Theres a lot going on in this picture. First, I separated the swingarm and the cylinder into two separate parts. The modeler made them as one assembly for some reason, but who doesn't want a spinning cylinder??<br />
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Then, I finished blending those pesky flashlight sections together and added small details out of styrene and 1/8th inch MDF. I also re-made the wiring mount by the trigger area from scratch using MDF and a 1/4" dowel. Lastly, with the trigger removed I could clean up the trigger area and the trigger itself without too much hassle. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_182641_924_zpsdwea3wel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_182641_924_zpsdwea3wel.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The half domes behind the cylinder were re-made in MDF and enlarged. The hammer was re-made in MDF/styrene and made wider. I glued the hammer back in at this point after clean up. There's a little triangle bit you can see to the right of the trigger. I dremeled out the old one, re-made it in styrene, and carefully inset it into the grip and sanded it flush.</div>
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_182635_783_zps9c42sffn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150327_182635_783_zps9c42sffn.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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I used a graphite rubbing on paper to get the shape of the grip. Then I cut the grip out of 1/8th inch MDF. The bulge on the grip was simply another layer of MDF shaped before being glued on. I cleaned out all of the "stepping" texture around the grip. (I had already cleaned off 95% of it off the rest of the gun, which took a decent amount of time)<br />
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You can kind of see some grooves in the handle where my fingers are. These are represented as a texture in the game model, but I decided to make them a 3D feature and I think they look great. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150329_220913_943_zpsmf6v6pjv.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150329_220913_943_zpsmf6v6pjv.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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A test fit. I cleaned off some more texture, and re-scribed the panel lines near the front sight. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150329_225548_247%201_zpsofjtcyih.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150329_225548_247%201_zpsofjtcyih.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I went back and did more shaping on the grip. I drilled holes for some nice big hex screws, and drafted out a grid for the grip bump/pimples/herpes. The round things are the smallest "pearl" details for scrapbooking I could find at Michael's. This is an old trick for fake rivets and the like that lots of prop maker use. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150331_173302_293_zpswnuyw3lx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150331_173302_293_zpswnuyw3lx.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The results are well worth it!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150401_173018_745_zpssxfglyjk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150401_173018_745_zpssxfglyjk.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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For those curious, here's a parts breakdown of the prop. The cylinder pin is simply borrowed from my <b><a href="http://www.zprops.net/?page_id=317" target="_blank">other hand cannon builds.</a> </b> The power cell is as well, bit doesn't fit in the cylinder and is simply a place holder since Eric never gave me the mold for his power cell. Check <b><a href="http://www.impactcustoms.com/" target="_blank">Impact props</a></b> in the near future for a resin kit of this piece. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150401_171355_852%201_zpsqigei9ta.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150401_171355_852%201_zpsqigei9ta.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Oh, I also made this doohickey at the end for the cables. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150411_150734_099_zpsklnexpce.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/IMG_20150411_150734_099_zpsklnexpce.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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On to the next!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/1hawkmoon_zpsijrakzs1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/hawkmoon/1hawkmoon_zpsijrakzs1.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<b><a href="http://www.zprops%2Cnet/" target="_blank">ZPROPS </a></b></div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/ImpactProps?fref=ts" target="_blank"><b>IMPACT PROPS</b></a></div>
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Thanks for reading!</div>
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-62762262717786540182015-04-01T14:13:00.000-07:002015-04-01T14:17:27.795-07:00Experienced Prop Maker Totally Pays Rent<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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SAN JOSE, CA- Waiting patiently for a $300 box of building materials, a 27 year old man reflects on the life he can only wish he had made earlier. "I'm so glad I didn't just push the "normal" job button after I spent 4-5 years on college. Having a fulfilling sense of purpose is totally worth not having confidence, a positive outlook, or being able to afford basic things like rent or fixing my 20 year old car that I drive daily that has a primer paint job. Or like, insurance n' stuff."- said Brant, enthusiastically as he took off his respirator with 1.5 year old filters.<br />
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"Its exciting so see where it can go", He continued. " Just a few weeks ago, I was offered a short term contract gig as a polyester resin/fiberglass hand for $12/hr in CA. Its exciting, as I'm looking at down payments on houses, a new car, maybe some new tools."<br />
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When asked about his current projects, he modestly replied "I've got a few pistols in the works. I'll spend 60 hours a week on each one, spend another day or two molding it and a few hundred in materials. It only took me about 4 years to develop these skills. Then I turn around and sell 3-5 resin copies that take a few hours to cast for a couple hundred each. Its really the most fun way to break even I can think of." <br />
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We can't help but think why you wouldn't want to impress your friends with a<b> <a href="http://www.rockbottomprops.com/" target="_blank">low budget alternative </a></b>with horrible paint and obvious material layering visible on all of the edges and seams. After all, remember your math teacher always telling you to "show your work"? This is the perfect way, and its super trendy.<br />
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"In 5 years, where you you see yourself?" we asked. "Well, I'm really excited about 3D printing. I think the Ultimaker 3 or 4 will do a good job replacing me in a few years down the road. Then, I won't have to spend nearly as much time on my projects. There might be some competition when literally everyone on the planet opens up for commissions, but I think my good looks will get me by.", he answered. "Otherwise, I'll probably still be in the 10' x 10' corner of an automotive shop that my friend rents out to me, probably out of pure niceness/pity." he exclaimed, while turning around to blow that pesky resin dust off of his clothes and into the air.<br />
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For more of America's finest news, you can read more here. <a href="http://www.theonion.com/">http://www.theonion.com/</a><br />
<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-51063506745856102792015-03-30T19:18:00.000-07:002015-07-11T11:05:56.784-07:00Destiny Hand Cannon (Devil you know, Duke MK 10/21, Pecadillo's grace, etc)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In every sci-fi game or anime, there's there's always the more basic/generic militarized version of weapons and vehicles, and then there's always the flashy rare rendition of things. This holds true for nearly everything. (Gundams VS GM's, tie fighter vs tie advanced, UNSC spartans vs marines, you get the idea)<br />
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I typically enjoy the more "mass produced" looking stuff more than the flashy stuff, and this destiny hand cannon was a perfect example of something designed to be plain and basic (Comparatively) that can still be made to look beautiful. So here it goes!<br />
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Destiny released this official reference before the game came out. If you've been reading through my other posts, I'm also a big fan on concept work over the in game models because in game models are typically less detailed and are "neutered" versions of the artists original vision. In this case the basic hand cannon was almost perfect, so all they did was change the little ridge under the cylinder a bit in the final version. Win!</div>
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In game this thing is 15.35 inches long... I printed it out and decided to scale it down to 14"..Not happy with how far away the hammer was (Since I wanted a moving hammer that I could cock with my thumb) I scaled it down to the final number of 13.5 inches long, which puts the barrel at .55 caliber or so. These are all I used to build the thing. Please don't ask me for blueprints. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/Destiny_Hand_Cannon_1_wallpaper_zpsgvspmb2h.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/Destiny_Hand_Cannon_1_wallpaper_zpsgvspmb2h.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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I started off with the front vents, which probably wasn't the best idea because they are hard to clean up later. Since I cut these on a scroll saw when it was freezing, my cuts weren't as nice as usual and it shows here and a few other places up front. It got warmer though as I went on and my cuts got better again.<br />
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This is probably one of the hardest parts to interpret. Most people think the front hole is larger, and the rest are small. The reality is they get progressively larger as you move towards the front, so I did my best to measure/show that. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150103_165411_986_zpsyxrnp6fl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150103_165411_986_zpsyxrnp6fl.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I did both sides of the lower shroud after, by simply layering up some styrene before gluing everything together. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_124106_084_zpsdq9krw4s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_124106_084_zpsdq9krw4s.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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I framed the gun in two separate sections and then glued them together. I cant remember why I did that, but there was a good reason at the time. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_175035_537_zps5ahyomth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_175035_537_zps5ahyomth.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Since the trigger guard section was a different thickness, it had to be made as a separate part. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_175053_903_zpslmb7stom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_175053_903_zpslmb7stom.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I cleaned up the trigger guard some and added detail. I also added the "lip" that goes under the cylinder here. Simply leaving it off would have saved me a TON of trouble designing the reload mechanism, but since I'm a sucker for accuracy I left it in there. In game the cylinder magically floats right through that lip when it pops out. A real life solution had to be made down the road. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_185815_429_zps6uybhtsw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150104_185815_429_zps6uybhtsw.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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1/4" MDF wasn't quite as thick as I'd liked for the hammer, so I beefed it up some. I added details with styrene and careful scribing/sanding. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_141730_904_zpsuxzzn8wy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_141730_904_zpsuxzzn8wy.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I made the "cradle" for the hammer and went forward on the priming. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_145447_452_zpsyqza1ibm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_145447_452_zpsyqza1ibm.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I shaped the parts that cradle the sides, but didn't glue them on so I could pop them out when needed and sanded them to shape. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_155228_232_zpstwo2qkyj.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_155228_232_zpstwo2qkyj.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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It just gets more and more tedious. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/DSC_5906_zps33ls5of7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/DSC_5906_zps33ls5of7.jpg" height="428" width="640" /></a><br />
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The half domes on the rear were carefully made with 2 layers of 1/8" MDF.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_183718_942_zpswnccayds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_183718_942_zpswnccayds.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Followed by some 1/2" MDF, which was cut to shape.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_183733_754_zpshuj06jio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150105_183733_754_zpshuj06jio.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Clean up and final little details.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/DSC_5911_zpspfmsbykm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/DSC_5911_zpspfmsbykm.jpg" height="428" width="640" /></a><br />
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While the back soaked in primer, I started in the front. This part had to be cast as a separate part later on, so getting it to line up with the shroud/front sight was important. At this point, I made the barrel opening out of 1/8" MDF. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_140547_256_zpssz9sprx9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_140547_256_zpssz9sprx9.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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Coming together.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_150244_763_zps9mbnltyd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_150244_763_zps9mbnltyd.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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This is where the tricky mechanical challenge started. The gun isn't symmetrical, and has this little nook for the swingarm to sit in. This is great because I don't need to make a stop for it, and I can easily install magnets to hold the swingarm all of the way closed. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_165200_929_zpswgbgq7lz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_165200_929_zpswgbgq7lz.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I don't have pictures of the swingarm being made, so we'll jump forward to the grips. They always start like this, and its always a ton o work to shape them and make them look like... well...not MDF. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_202144_020_zpsa1hdv5dy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_202144_020_zpsa1hdv5dy.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Somehow I managed by drawing the contours with a pencil, sanding, re-drawing, etc. until I checked the shape against the reference image and got something almost perfect. Then I drilled the hole for the emblems, and glued them in place. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_221602_706_zpsuay0bbr7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150107_221602_706_zpsuay0bbr7.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I wanted the grips hollow so I could get a tool through the bottom and push the emblems back up if I pressed them in too far later on. So, I just made some thin MDF walls and sanded them to shape. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_153605_113_zpsrezbpn0u.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_153605_113_zpsrezbpn0u.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I'd say it worked pretty well! I hate filler, so I filled the little nooks with carefully cut pieces of styrene. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_162638_846_zpslfhsgwwu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_162638_846_zpslfhsgwwu.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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For the emblems, I used my ghetto lathe. Its pretty easy to follow.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_164118_715_zpsblolqd59.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_164118_715_zpsblolqd59.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_164251_361_zpst2zpzcez.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_164251_361_zpst2zpzcez.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_164532_269_zpshibfpmfb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_164532_269_zpshibfpmfb.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_165941_739_zps8nkdxzhs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_165941_739_zps8nkdxzhs.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then, I cut the angled horizontal slit with an exacto and filled the hole in the center. Into place they go!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_181034_426_zpsinbe2dqx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_181034_426_zpsinbe2dqx.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I think I made this bottom lip part 2 or 3 times. Its a tricky shape to get just right. I started drafting the rectangular but that goes behind it. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_192222_338_zps4jabaof5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_192222_338_zps4jabaof5.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Glued in place behind the grip, and grafted to the handle. A few holes for detail, and a test fit of the swingarm. Getting that almost finished vibe at this point. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_205211_339_zpsnhuuirth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150108_205211_339_zpsnhuuirth.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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This is just loosely glued in place, but here I was testing the geometry of the newly completed cylinder. I don't have photos, but its very similar to how <a href="http://www.therpf.com/f9/destiny-hand-cannon-wip-224263/?highlight=hand+cannon" target="_blank"><b>this guy was about to do his</b></a>. (Although the flutes were eventually dremeled and a hole saw was used for the overall cut. The inside cut had to be done by hand.)<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150109_175340_349_zps5ffjxxbq.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150109_175340_349_zps5ffjxxbq.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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Not wanting to deal with epoxy sculpy, bondo, or machining these things on a mill, I used some plastalina clay and a ball bearing to blend the flutes.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150128_121535_830_zps1lrc9uhx.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150128_121535_830_zps1lrc9uhx.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150128_121601_050_zpsijh6qp0q.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150128_121601_050_zpsijh6qp0q.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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I simply trimmed the excess clay with an exacto and was careful not to smudge it until it was ready for molding. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150128_121639_200_zpsoa3oxrtu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150128_121639_200_zpsoa3oxrtu.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">I needed something to pop into the cylinder so I took a screen grab in game of the power cell dropping out. It seems to be rather simple so I made it as such. I started with the back end which needed to fit the cylinder perfectly. (There should be some text engraved that I cant read, but I don't have a laser so whatevs!)</span></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150113_135519_861_zpswuqfvzov.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150113_135519_861_zpswuqfvzov.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Since I don't have/use a lathe, I layered up bits and then cut them out. Some beveled, some not. </span></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150113_140908_053_zpsqdhmgmcy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150113_140908_053_zpsqdhmgmcy.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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The last layer was made in styrene. This thing is huge. (Like a shortened 40mm grenade.)<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150113_142806_976_zpsxtlxfca3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150113_142806_976_zpsxtlxfca3.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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I wanted a bunch of these. As always, an MDF jig was used for molding. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150119_203544_544_zps8kez6vwn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150119_203544_544_zps8kez6vwn.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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First couple of coats.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150123_142331_278_zpsb1fvxyab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150123_142331_278_zpsb1fvxyab.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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Cured, flipped over, repeat.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150123_125800_265_zpszo9rbzn3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150123_125800_265_zpszo9rbzn3.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I had to cut a few vents, but the casts come out great. This is the first pull. I didn't take progress pictures of the other molds, sadly.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150125_123710_748_zpsi8hmqtb5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150125_123710_748_zpsi8hmqtb5.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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I started playing with....errr...cleaning up the first cast molded in grey. The first two I wanted to make were the duke MK 10, and the Devil you know. I did them at the same time. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150131_102319_zps6imeklin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150131_102319_zps6imeklin.jpg" height="640" width="376" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Then I made a cast in bright white. </span><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150317_034248_043_zpsmde6kodt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150317_034248_043_zpsmde6kodt.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">After prep, I did the full reload conversion on both. </span><a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2015/02/destiny-handcannon-reload-conversion.html" style="text-align: start;" target="_blank"><b>You can see how it was done here.</b></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Onto some tedious masking...</span><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150320_135808_122_zpsldlpeaug.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150320_135808_122_zpsldlpeaug.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Shiny!<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150320_144328_303_zps8hxannkk.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150320_144328_303_zps8hxannkk.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">I chose the Duke MK 10 as tribute to the concept artist, but also because I love weathering white. </span><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150318_172840_509_zpslyqsjqcl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/IMG_20150318_172840_509_zpslyqsjqcl.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a><br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">Special thanks to Eric at </span><a href="http://www.impactcustoms.com/" style="text-align: start;" target="_blank"><b>Impact Props</b></a><span style="text-align: start;"> for the photos!</span><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/3TDYK_zps3ylcili4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/3TDYK_zps3ylcili4.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/2TDYKDUKE_zpslu2vjk6m.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/Handcannon/2TDYKDUKE_zpslu2vjk6m.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a><br />
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Thanks for reading!<br />
<br />
If you're interested in a resin cast, you can <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/ZpropsEtsy" target="_blank"><b>grab one here. </b></a><br />
<br />
You can find daily updates or message me on the <b><a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">Facebook page</a>.</b><br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-28346229636946567772015-02-04T23:25:00.000-08:002015-02-04T23:52:23.204-08:00Destiny Handcannon Reload Conversion<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Hey guys, if you got a handcannon kit of mine or were considering one, you should read through this post! <br />
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Here I break down the process of pinning the swingarm, and the optional process of making a track for the swingarm to stop. (Alternatively you can just build it in the closed position with just about no effort what so ever)<br />
<br />
Why didn't I just incorporate this into the kit you ask? Because resin nubs and cuts just aren't strong enough or precise enough to support this kind of action on this revolver. The game action runs on magic, and if I made the action like they did it in the game the cylinder would hit the bottom lip almost immediately and would never open. Thus, a new swingarm location and design had to be invented to preserve accuracy. <br />
<br />
First,
take the swingarm and sand it down a bit. The swingarm is cast from an
open faced mold to save time and cost, which means it wont be perfectly
parallel on both ends. You'll want to flatten it out a bit, and if
anything, sand heavier on the side that points to the inside of the gun.
I sanded mine on a piece of 220 atop a perfectly flat, machined surface. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_113957_296_zpsilkly93y.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_113957_296_zpsilkly93y.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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You'll want to test the alignment with the cylinder. I inserted the
cylinder pin through the opening, and lightly coated the end of the pin
with super glue and let it dry. This gives the pin an extra snug fit
into the swingarm. DO NOT glue the pin into anything at this point. This simply tightens the slack for test fitting. You might want to lightly sand the opening if you want the cylinder to spin more freely. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115026_728_zps9nuaqpwe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115026_728_zps9nuaqpwe.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Hold the swingarm flush in its place and see if you like the alignment. Adjust accordingly with sanding. Then, draw lines in the
same locations pictured here (the pencil lines are small and a bit shiny
so they're hard to see)</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115143_178_zpsu6hge5rz.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115143_178_zpsu6hge5rz.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
In this next step.... hack it off! you can use a scroll saw, exacto saw,
jewlers saw, etc just make sure the blade is thin. The bottom location
of the cut is critical. The top one has more flexibility. You have to cut this because there just isn't a way to drill the proper holes otherwise. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115342_669_zpsale5ktgc.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115342_669_zpsale5ktgc.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
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After you're done crying/freaking out for a bit, put a drop of glue down under the swingarm. This will hold it in
place for drilling, but you can still pry it off with little/no damage
afterwards. Glue this thing down as low as possible. you want the gap to be towards the top of the swingarm, not the bottom. (I made this mistake and now it rubs a little when the cylinder pops out)</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115515_893_zpsjrgsc4ji.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_115515_893_zpsjrgsc4ji.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Set up for drilling. A machine vice/drill press makes it easy. Use what
you can, but if you do it with a hand drill/dremel don't expect precision
results. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_121322_370_zpsgac3wdzi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_121322_370_zpsgac3wdzi.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
This is the "pin" I used. I think its something like a 16D nail. All I
remember is it is 7/64" in diameter. I roughed up the ends so that the
glue has a batter chance of staying. I used a cut-off wheel for this. I ended up cutting about 3/8ths off the end because my drill but wouldn't go that deep. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_120511_835_zpslwanfc2b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_120511_835_zpslwanfc2b.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a><br />
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Here is the location of the hole. The drilling melted/cracked the receiver a bit, which is somewhat of a good thing as you'll see later. You don't want to crack the swingarm though. That piece is rather important. <span id="goog_1160221717"></span><span id="goog_1160221718"></span><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_122549_295_zpstrurruyg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_122549_295_zpstrurruyg.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
<span id="goog_1160221710"></span><span id="goog_1160221711"></span><br />
There's a couple of things we need to do before gluing the swingarm pin. One is dealing with the magnets. If you want your chamber to stay closed, you'll need magnets to do so. <br />
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This is the upper backside of the swingarm. One of the magnets goes here. (You'll have to pry your lightly glued swingarm off of the receiver) After you drill the hole at the appropriate size and depth paint the area around the hole with some acrylic. Then temporarily put the pin in, swing it closed, and it will "stamp" the location of where the other magnet needs to go. I'll let you figure that bit out. <br />
<span id="goog_1700949582"></span><br />
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Where were we....ahh, the whole pinning thing. Its important to make
room for the head of the nail. It needs to be flush with the swingarm
surface, or the cylinder will not be able to rotate. I started drilling a
concentric hole with a larger drill bit, then I cleaned it up with an
exacto. I'm told they make special drill bits for this, though. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_123404_921_zpsq6qy5kpm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_123404_921_zpsq6qy5kpm.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you dont mind the swingarm moving out really far (this is technically accurate to the game model, but I still don't like it) then you can glue the pin in place at this point. If you're going to do the optional part below, DO NOT GLUE THE PIN. Simply dry fit it in place. <br />
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<b>OPTIONAL BIT</b><br />
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It bothers me how far it opens, and just doesn't look as cool as stopping mid-swing. Also, the power cell would hit your hand on the way out if you left it the way it is in the game. I decided to make a "track" and a stop. <br />
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I drilled a hole for a smaller nail at this location through the swingarm only. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_130827_643_zps553iwlum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_130827_643_zps553iwlum.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
I pressed the nail down through the hole (Dont glue it) while swinging
the swingarm open to the point where I wanted it to stop. I did this
several times until it started scraping a thin path. Then, I ground of a
little bit more of the nail tip and repeated the process until I got a
relatively shallow and wide groove. I sanded it carefully using a folded edge of a sandpaper scrap. </div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
Resin is a relatively soft material, and dragging a nail across it will
eventually continue "scribing" the track. then it will start opening
further than you'd like over time. To put a stop to this (Pun intended) I
drilled another nail location at the end of the track. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_132612_525_zpsxtlwseip.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_132612_525_zpsxtlwseip.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: left;">
I glued the nail in place and used a cut-off wheel. Now I have a metal stop which should last forever. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_132856_744_zps8ety3ybs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_132856_744_zps8ety3ybs.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_134825_143_zpsv30bhawl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I glued the smaller nail in place, with just a nub sticking out to guide
the swingarm through the track. <br />
<br />
<b>END OPTIONAL BIT. </b><br />
<br />
Then I glued the main pin. (Easy on the
glue. You don't want this overflowing and gluing your swingarm in one
place! I then dug out the cracked/melted portion of the receiver from
before. This is a good thing. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_134825_143_zpsv30bhawl.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_134825_143_zpsv30bhawl.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
I carved it out until I hit the nail. Then I put some super glue in the
hole and sanded the surface around it so the resin dust falls into the
hole. Then more super glue, and more dust. This not only fixed the
cosmetic flaw that drilling caused, but strongly reinforces the textured
pin with a superglue/resin concoction. <br />
<br />
Almost done! Glue the
receiver halves together. I would glue the top first, and then the bottom. I still wouldn't glue the
cylinder pin in place until after you have painted everything. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_141820_067_zpsmzpkok4c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150131_141820_067_zpsmzpkok4c.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150204_231313_346_zpscjcyhjjr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The teeny tiny piece included with the kit is called the "swingarm
stop". I designed it so that you can sand it down a bit and sandwich it
between the swingarm and the tiny nook in the receiver designed for it.
This helps keep the swingarm tight and aligned when closed, but also
reinforces the tiny joint at the bottom where we cut the receiver in
half. It mimics the shape of this section on the receiver. <br />
<br />
Here's
mine glued in place. Don't mind the black paint or if my swingarm looks
different than yours. I was working on a cosmetic conversion at the
time.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150204_231313_346_zpscjcyhjjr.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/handcannon%20conversion/IMG_20150204_231313_346_zpscjcyhjjr.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you did this conversion, congrats! you'll never stop flicking it open and closed. I promise. <br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-62859377756826842612015-01-21T00:34:00.001-08:002017-05-16T19:36:01.818-07:00Tips for dealing with a prop maker or any other independent artistIt must take a deranged person to sit down one day to drop what they're doing and decide "Hey, I'm going to be an artist in this sloppy-seconds of an economy." Well, we're crazy, but we're still people too. Here's a few things you can do to make your encounter smoother, and in some cases, can make or break the possibility of a conversation get started at all. <br />
<br />
All of the quotations henceforth are actual ones I have received, good or bad. If I lumped all the quotes I've heard other makers say they've gotten, this posting would be too.....colorful...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Numbr 1: put some efort into ur request</b><br />
<br />
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<a href="http://memecrunch.com/meme/ZLVR/y-u-no-respond/image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://memecrunch.com/meme/ZLVR/y-u-no-respond/image.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
If you start your message with something like: " can u make me dis.....",
then your chances of hearing back from an artist (Or any professional,
really) diminish a bit. The biggest reason is attitude. If a sender
isn't willing to put in some effort to make their message sound
professional, it probably means they aren't going to pay for (Or
appreciate the details that go into) professional work. Chances are, these messages aren't being sent out in a hurry on the way to work, so try and put in that little extra effort to come across in a better light. <br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br />2: Provide details and expectations up front</b><br />
<br />
"I have a project I'd like you to do. Please email me at .....@yahoo.com" <br />
<br />
Unless you're Bioware or a big/awesome company that requires an NDA to be signed before any details are disclosed, chances are that any busy artist isn't going to chase you down for a project they know nothing about. Alternatively, not everyone prefers Facebook as their primary communicator, so if someone simply asks for an email address I oblige and continue the conversation there, where they usually provide details up front. <br />
<b><br /></b>Take your car for example. If there's something wrong with your car, its your job to get it to the mechanic and give some information so they can diagnose it and give you a quote. If you can muster the strength to ask a mechanic to come to your house and peruse you for a quote, you're probably in for some pretty blank stares.<br />
<br />
The kind of things you'll want to provide are....well, as much as you can. Commission work isn't typically an overly formal process. However, most people can agree that the information you provide before the work is started <i>is </i>the standard that expectations will be measured against when the project is completed. The main two things are scale factor and reference material. A scale factor can simply be a length of the object in question, or the height of the client as a basis to compare and scale specific references to. By not specifying these things, you are trusting the artist's judgement and won't have much room to complain if the final product isn't sized to your liking. <br />
<b></b><br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20medipack/MediPackReferences.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20medipack/MediPackReferences.jpg" width="296" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good reference. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b></b></div>
The images you provide should be high resolution and provide as many
angles as possible. This leaves less open to interpretation and saves a
TON of time. The images should also be consistent. If you're requesting
an anime object, the piece in question will vary scene to scene greatly.
Unless a blueprint is provided, it will be up to the artist to
interpret those frames into an object. Some sellers make blueprints and
factor them into their commission cost before starting. Some like myself
use full sized screenshots. If you're unsure about this aspect, simply ask before things get started. <b><br /><b><br /></b><br /><br /><br /><span id="goog_1825199375"></span><span id="goog_1825199376"></span><br /><br /><br />3: Don't de-value the artist's work.</b><br />
<span data-reactid=".9.1.0.0.0.0.1:$mid=11410034596116=2ed3c18b3c23ff66708.0.1.0.$right.0.0.1.0"><span data-reactid=".9.1.0.0.0.0.1:$mid=11410034596116=2ed3c18b3c23ff66708.0.1.0.$right.0.0.1.0.$end:0:$2:0"> <br />"I myself have two other resin kits and those did not cost nearly as much."</span></span><br />
<br />
<span data-reactid=".2m.1.0.0.0.0.1:$mid=11403828413475=20098aa0534d293b069.0.1.0.$right.0.0.1.0"><span data-reactid=".2m.1.0.0.0.0.1:$mid=11403828413475=20098aa0534d293b069.0.1.0.$right.0.0.1.0.$end:0:$0:0">"Yikes. Is that your usual pricing?"</span></span><br />
<br />
"My friend made this out of 6 PVC pipes and some cardboard. Why is yours so expensive?"<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://www.rockbottomprops.com/images/rocky-logo.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://www.rockbottomprops.com/images/rocky-logo.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
I'm not trying to sound like an elitist, but not all work is equal. If
you message a certain artist to inquire about their work, chances are
you hold that art to a higher standard than the products/artists you
currently have available or you would not have messaged them in the
first place. If you're just getting a feel for prices from multiple
artists, or you're simply messaging one for the first time try and be
respectful about it. I won't get off topic here, but if an artist puts
200 hours sculpting something and a few hundred in materials to
make/mold it, and they end up charging you a few hundred for a cast copy
of their work, its a steal. (unless you value your time at about
$1-2/hour trying to attempt it yourself if you can build it to a
similar standard)<br />
<br />
Unfortunately we can't explain everything to everyone in regards to how
prices are what they are, but rest assured no one is making pile of
money here. Until you're tried it yourself, avoid sensitive remarks in
regards to an artist's pricing. A simple "Thanks for the quote" or "I'll
consider your offer while I get my finances in order" is a great
alternative, which brings me to my next point.<br />
<b></b><br />
<b><br /><br />4: Thank the artist/close the conversation</b><br />
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<a href="http://www.kappit.com/img/pics/201504_1201_eeeag_sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://www.kappit.com/img/pics/201504_1201_eeeag_sm.jpg" /></a></div>
Sometimes
an artist will go well out of their way to help someone with an
inquiry. Answering questions about paint/materials, general prop making,
or where to get a certain thing. I could have made a few novels if I
clumped together all of the responses I've given over the years. Even if
I don't expect a sale or I'm referring someone to another artist who
has a mold of something (and can therefore do it cheaper), I treat the
person the same. I think this goes for most artists who are trying to
help others and just generally be a decent human being. More times than
not though, I'll answer several emails helping someone out and they
take the suggestion and drop you like a rock. No acknowledging your
advice, no "thank you" of any sort. Its probably a result of bad
parenting, but in any case don't be that guy. We understand that things
come up and sometimes messages are delayed or missed entirely, (It
happens on both ends) but it still happens way more than it should.<br />
<br />
Hopefully I can help turn the population into clear communicators, one late-night blog post at a time! <br />
<br />
In the meanwhile, you can harass me on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">Facebook</a>, or at the <a href="http://www.zprops.net/" target="_blank">site</a>. zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-34484514178641379862015-01-01T13:30:00.000-08:002015-01-01T20:37:13.328-08:00Festive Force A' Nature (V1.5)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I had a revisit with my <a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2011/12/team-fortress-2-force-nature.html" target="_blank">old Force A' Nature</a>
when my client sent it back for a repaint after taking it to a few
conventions. This was a huge opportunity, because I was able to mold the
parts I needed while it was disassembled and sanded before the repaint.
This was also one of my first props ever made, and is still one of my
favorites. </div>
<br />
I molded the more accurate parts, (The barrels,
receiver, foregrip, lever) and decided to re-make the stock and trigger
guard. The trigger guard on the previous version was too thick. (Even
for a TF2 prop) The grip on the stock was too thin, as it was designed
this way for the client who had smaller hands. The previous stock was
also a bit more bulky on the corners and the overall shape was too
slim/elegant for a TF2 prop. <br />
<br />
The changes would be ever so slight
to a "normal" person, so I decided to christen the new parts with
something more.........well, you decide. <br />
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<a href="http://media.steampowered.com/apps/440/icons/c_xms_double_barrel_large.7f426018a2f0986f2b7c6168fa6d67bc3c5b45d8.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://media.steampowered.com/apps/440/icons/c_xms_double_barrel_large.7f426018a2f0986f2b7c6168fa6d67bc3c5b45d8.png" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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I got started on the new stock asap, as I needed to get this thing
molded and cast too (So that I could not only make reproductions, but
also have a hollow stock for weight and electronics) I shaped it relative to the cast of the receiver I made based off of the previous gun. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20140902_154943_611_zpsf45c8922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20140902_154943_611_zpsf45c8922.jpg" height="246" width="640" /> </a></div>
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The stock was rounded out quite a bit more, and came out quite nicely. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20140902_154951_841_zps15cf60f7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20140902_154951_841_zps15cf60f7.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Last time, I did this insert completely by hand with a Dremel. No idea
how I did that, so I made a plastic insert, Dremeled it out, and
sanded/filled it flush afterwards. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20140903_154011_469_zps69bce00e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20140903_154011_469_zps69bce00e.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
<br />
I got the finished stock and trigger guard (No pictures, rushed build. Sorry!) under silicone and focused on the front end. I did the magnet thing blatantly stolen from <a href="http://www.volpinprops.com/" target="_blank">Volpin Props</a>, just like last time. Getting these perfectly aligned before drilling the holes can be a bit tricky. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_142319_289_zps7c42904c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_142319_289_zps7c42904c.jpg" height="360" width="640" /> </a></div>
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I popped a stock cast out of the new mold, and very very carefully sawed
off the buttplate. I glued this switch/battery back to it, so it can
slide in and out of the hollow stock. (The buttplate is held on by tiny drops
of glue) You can also see here, I cut out the button switch assembly and
integrated it into the buttplate. I secured everything with hot glue. I got this portable LED strand from Home Depot for around 10 bucks. I shortened it by about 4 LEDs and it works perfectly. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_163149_989_zpsf7fabb2e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_163149_989_zpsf7fabb2e.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
(Like everything) I cut the button space out with a scroll saw and filled the voids with styrene and suerglue.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_154748_804_zpsfe012f04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_154748_804_zpsfe012f04.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
<br />
Got the rear end all painted and good to go! I strung the rest of the lights around the prop and stapled the last LED in under the receiver. There are two tiny brass pins that keep the wiring on high spots where the wires want to slide out of place. Here it is before that, where I'm just happy to have lights on a TF2 thingie.<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_170645_033_zpse4580378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/IMG_20141204_170645_033_zpse4580378.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
<br />
The front end paint job was just simple painting with the white red of the barrels painted first, then the white. This enabled me to just mask the two winding strips on each side, paint, and un-mask. The foregrip is a green color with a carefully sharpied panel line. (This is supposed to represent green wrapping paper on the models) The tape is scotch tape over packing tape. Doing just one or the other was too glossy and less pronounced, or too flat and too bright. This balanced the two. I take my tape details pretty seriously. <br />
<br />
Special thanks to <a href="http://www.impactcustoms.com/" target="_blank">Impact Props</a> for the great photos!<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/FestiveFAN1_zps4c6296c7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/tf2%20Force%20a%20nature/FestiveFAN1_zps4c6296c7.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a></div>
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More props at the Facebook page, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">here. </a></div>
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Want one of your own or something similar? <a href="http://www.zprops.net/?page_id=16" target="_blank">Here is a good place to start. </a><br />
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Bonk!<br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-35541912418630594792014-12-29T16:45:00.003-08:002014-12-29T16:47:42.248-08:00Gundam 0083 90mm GM Rifle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I had some major surgery at the beginning of the year and decided I
needed to make something during my recovery. It had to relate to my
other projects, and be relatively easy. I needed to be able to do most
of the work from home, as I wasn't supposed to be driving much. I
settled on a Gundam rifle. <br />
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Some Gundam rifles, especially from
the Universal Century timeline, are based loosely on real weapons. In
this case, I chose one based on the L85. I love bullpups, but the L85 is
ugly as sin. The Gundam rendition is pretty cool though! Luckily, I
scored a Chinese made airsoft springer on ebay that was broken and
didn't have a magazine or any accessories or about 15 bucks. Perfect. <br />
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Since
anime guns vary in look between drawings and screenshots, I settled on
the Master Grade Rifle that came with the GM Custom. It was my favorite
take on the rifle, and resembles the L85 most closely. <br />
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Basically, I had to merge these two rifles.<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GML85_zpsca16b48b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GML85_zpsca16b48b.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a><br />
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The stock had to be hacked down, with the "wedge" shape eliminated. The cheek guard was not salvageable on the airsoft version, as it was far too flat and rounded. The entire sight and carrying handle assembly had to be scratch built, as well as the top and bottom of the foregrip. The magazine would have to me custom made, and the magwell moved back further. Lastly, the grip had to be relocated and the misc. plates and details made. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/hybridL85_zps0b2738fa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/hybridL85_zps0b2738fa.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a><br />
I stripped out all of the internals, and the "weights" (some are lead
bars, some are compressed sand wrapped in a rectangular wrapping. The
cheap airsoft springers are notorious for having these.) I hacked off the top of the foregrip first and scratch built the receiver extension out of styrene. The vent holes were covered as well. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/ResizedImage_1391287501159_zps5b5b2ebe.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/ResizedImage_1391287501159_zps5b5b2ebe.jpg" height="400" width="303" /></a></div>
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I got sidetracked and made some hand armor while I was at it. As I said, I was making this from home, so here's a progress shot in my workshop (The kitchen)<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140125_145528_303_zpsdc7204f3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140125_145528_303_zpsdc7204f3.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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I continued by wrapping styrene around the edges of the carrying handle frame. I also covered up some sections in the front of the foregrip that got hacked off. You can see the tons of screw holes that will need to be filled in later.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140126_134120_806_zpsf7e7be0a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140126_134120_806_zpsf7e7be0a.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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I visited the shop (against my doctors advice) and cut out a few MDF parts all at once. The buttpad was one of the first. here it is installed with the now wedge-less receiver. The magazine was made out of styrene, and the misc. detail bits molded into the receiver were cut out or relocated.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140130_113455_665_zpsd080ddff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140130_113455_665_zpsd080ddff.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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Some more MDF and styrene details on top of the foregrip being blocked out.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140130_172853_506_zpsace351e9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140130_172853_506_zpsace351e9.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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Some tedious styrene wrapping.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140130_174307_619_zps940ee1eb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140130_174307_619_zps940ee1eb.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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I wanted this thing as light as possible, so I even made the cheek guard parts layered for minimum weight.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140131_144146_155_zps90dcbb42.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140131_144146_155_zps90dcbb42.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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The grip was lowered and all the odds and ends started getting filled in.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140131_181151_803_zps61b525cd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140131_181151_803_zps61b525cd.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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A few more details, screw holes, and gaps before paint!<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140201_113944_745_zps1b17aab3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/IMG_20140201_113944_745_zps1b17aab3.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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These were taken my my friend Eric from the ever popular Impact Props!<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GundamRifle1_zps677559fd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GundamRifle1_zps677559fd.jpg" height="414" width="640" /> </a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GundamRifle2_zps2bd51456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GundamRifle2_zps2bd51456.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a></div>
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I painted the rear sights and some inserts black to give it a more modern look.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GundamRifle3_zps4d558265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/GM%20rifle/GundamRifle3_zps4d558265.jpg" height="414" width="640" /></a></div>
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Thanks for looking! More projects here: <a href="http://www.zprops.net/" target="_blank">Zprops</a>zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-26347161294991714692014-10-16T14:18:00.002-07:002014-10-19T15:40:05.928-07:00Team Fortress 2: Demoman's Grenade LauncherI love Team Fortress 2. Yes, I know this is a big surprise. But with only a mere 700 hours on the game, I decided I still couldn't get enough and wanted to bring more of it into my......living room.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/image005_zps350ccddf.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/image005_zps350ccddf.png" height="392" width="640" /></a></div>
Initially I was going to do the Demoman's sticky launcher, but couldn't find the appropriate piping. I could make it or source it somewhere, but wanted to start on something right away. Plus, the mechanism of the grenade launcher as well as the sheer size and stock make it a more complex build. I figured it would be more of a challenge and thus more satisfying. <br />
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Did I mention this thing is huge?<br />
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I started with the chamber and the frame that goes around it. This is the heart of the gun, and if something is slightly off, everything else will follow. I decided to get it right before trucking onwards.<br />
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This is one of the only MDF parts on the gun that isn't hollow. A you can see, there's only a hair of structure keeping the center "star" attached. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_191655_507_zps16b6523b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_191655_507_zps16b6523b.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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The top part is the start of the "frame" of the launcher. I left a
circle as an opening to line up with the chamber, and left two stems of
support. The edges are relatively thin, but it saves a ton of weight. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_200803_163_zps4192bf26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_200803_163_zps4192bf26.jpg" height="360" width="640" /> </a></div>
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This, of course, had to be covered up. Even in this layer I
eliminated any MDF that was going to be covered up with yet another layer, but also didn't
effect the structure. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_222311_551_zpsf7a5789f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_222311_551_zpsf7a5789f.jpg" height="360" width="640" /> </a></div>
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The next layer goes on with the holes cut for the screw heads. The
large circle cut had to be precise, as I wanted the barrel to friction
fit inside so it can be removed for storage/transport. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_233624_456_zps4764937e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140909_233624_456_zps4764937e.jpg" height="360" width="640" /> </a></div>
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Happy with how everything fit so far, I started gluing the tubes in the revolving drum bit. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140910_150742_408_zpsb0ba0659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140910_150742_408_zpsb0ba0659.jpg" height="360" width="640" /> </a></div>
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<span style="color: #0000ee;">Dry<span style="color: #0000ee;"> fitting the barrel<span style="color: #0000ee;"> to see how </span></span></span>everything lines up, as well as creating a parallel reference for the upper support arm pictured below. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140910_170753_646_zpsf49e7038.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140910_170753_646_zpsf49e7038.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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Did the front sight and took a teaser picture. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140910_190130_360_zpsc5662132.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140910_190130_360_zpsc5662132.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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I don't have any non-blurry pictures of the lower support arm. So here's this. It too, was hollow and took about 8 parts to make. I could have done this on a few layers of MDF but it would have been heavier. Every bit helps!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_121408_144_zps4afe1b4f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_121408_144_zps4afe1b4f.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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Did a quick layer of the back plate. The lower arm was off just a hair here, so this was a good place to correct it. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_144946_370_zps70c674ae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_144946_370_zps70c674ae.jpg" height="640" width="360" /> </a></div>
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I cut out and glued the mass of the back plate to the part I just made.
Hollow as always, but I left a small support frame for the stock. Also I
left a square area for a mechanism that I knew I'd have to retrofit in
there eventually. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_150336_976_zpsea3c3f7e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_150336_976_zpsea3c3f7e.jpg" height="360" width="640" /> </a></div>
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Moving right along!</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_172903_378_zps981c05f5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_172903_378_zps981c05f5.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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The stock had to be made next so that the trigger, mechanism, and
trim pieces could be made based on measurements taken from the outlines
of the stock. This is what I started with:</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_202530_988_zps274ac80a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/TF2%20Grenade%20Launcher/IMG_20140911_202530_988_zps274ac80a.jpg" height="640" width="360" /></a></div>
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*Correction* This is what I started with: (Shaved a pound just by taking this simple, extra step.)</div>
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I might have forgotten to take more pictures of the stock progression..
Anyways, heres the basics of the stock mechanism shamelessly stolen from
a similar build by <a href="http://tllcreations.wordpress.com/2012/10/18/team-fortress-2-grenade-launcher/" target="_blank">TLL Creations</a>. I refined the idea a little bit and it works great!</div>
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<span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="color: #0000ee;">This i<span style="color: #0000ee;">s the<span style="color: #0000ee;"> under<span style="color: #0000ee;">side of the release lever. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span>The deeper notch is for a spring, and the <span style="color: #0000ee;">shallow notch i<span style="color: #0000ee;">s f<span style="color: #0000ee;">or a stop. </span></span></span></span></div>
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Happy with everything, I sealed up the mechanism. </div>
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The frame for the trigger was made, of course with some room left to make the trigger move.</div>
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Trigger made and Pinned. A spring was inserted between the rear of the trigger and a corresponding hole drilled into the stock. </div>
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This is the cuff that goes around the stock where it meets the back
plate. It was shaped using some....unusual....methods in a successful
attempt to avoid filler. </div>
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<br />
Coming together. #Prime #Sand #Repeat</div>
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Time to revisit the front end. To panel everything on the front, I made a
series of MDF supports to be covered in styrene. That means that yes, even
these parts are hollow. Gotta save that weight!</div>
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Same story with the bottom. </div>
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The foregrip was made hollow by calculating all of the angles in
which a bunch of 1/2" pieces of MDF need to meet at. The rest was just
simple sanding. </div>
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Looking good so far! (PS. Spot the Coke can in the picture.)</div>
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This is a cuff that goes at the base of
the barrel. I borrowed a chop saw to get the section cut at exactly 90
degrees. Then I taped a line and used my scroll saw to do a 45 degree
bevel all around. </div>
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Made the "rear sight" that sits on the upper support arm. The mechanism is also fun to play with. Almost there!<br />
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I re-did the front sight at the last minute. The one on the left
(The first version) had too much angle and just looked too cartoony. </div>
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Last shot before small detail bits and paint. Redbull for scale. (No, it doesn't fit in the chamber. Barely...)</div>
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"Leeeeeet's do ittttttt!"<br />
Special thanks to <a href="https://www.facebook.com/UnitDagger6" target="_blank">Dagger 6 Productions</a> for the awesome photos!</div>
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Off ye' go lads!<br />
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<a href="http://www.zprops.net/" target="_blank">Home</a>zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-33269723656627360782014-06-10T23:04:00.000-07:002015-08-19T15:02:07.420-07:00Planetary Tech Station Terrain SetThe Tech terrain set was a lengthy process. I spent about 2-3x hours on this set compared to the previous one.<br />
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I first decided what thickness I wanted the set to be. Like last time, I used a 1/8th inch piece of MDF as the base, but decided I wanted a clearly visible grid. I decided that building a grid on top of the panel would be easier than trying to scribe an even grid.<br />
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Each detail section is built on a small, roughly 1.5 " x 1.5" piece of styrene. I was initially going to make 8 different detail tiles, cast them, and glue them to the panel. I think I ended up with 12+ different ones though. Here were the first six. The grey round part is cast from a mass effect gun part and then modified to blend in. The brass is...brass.<br />
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I got a consistent height by layering three pieces of styrene together for consistency. A smaller layer of styrene was used for the final, detail layering. I could have made the raised detail larger/deeper, but the result would have been a higher cost. Certain details had to be cut out of the top layer before gluing them to the bottom layers, such as the inset details on the semi circle bits.<br />
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I had the idea for coasters ahead of time, so I figured I'd make the molds for those first, and then use really thin casts as bits for the full sized panels.<br />
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I glued the masters (Blue-ish grey bits) down to the board, then filled in the rest with casts of the masters (White bits and brown-ish grey bits)<br />
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With that ready for molding I moved onto the turret. I initially decided on an incline face for the barrels, but changed it later. the entire turret is carefully scribed and sanded styrene, with the side bits on the top cast from a section of detail from a panel mold. It kind of reminds me of the details on a Bradley tank turret.<br />
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The Barrels were made from brass rod, and bits from leftover super glue bottles.<br />
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For the large turret, I really wanted a distinctive/unique look. I sketched out what I wanted and get to work. For this I had Star Wars (Of course) and the Gundam universe as my main inspiration.<br />
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Almost done with the base piece:<br />
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These were the first casts. (ran out of ink, but they were getting painted anyways)<br />
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They were painted over with grey primer, and then colored with a color called "Camouflage Grey".<br />
I mounted them to some wood along with some painted up tiles, and the results are spectacular!<br />
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If you like these sort of projects, you can see more at my<a href="http://www.zprops.net/" target="_blank"> [ main website.]</a>zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-22900860332071814732014-05-29T15:09:00.000-07:002014-05-30T14:30:19.787-07:00Mass Effect III N7 Valiant Sniper Rifle<br />
This will be my 6th completed Mass Effect gun build to date. The N7 valiant. I decided to go with the short barreled version you see in the game, rather than the long barreled version on the back of the Mass Effect 3 cover. I also opted to make a few changes that don't exist in the game model, and wanted to give it a stealthy, dark look to it since it is an experimental weapon.<br />
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Here's a picture, try and spot the changes by the end:<br />
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Obviously, I thought it best to start with a <a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2011/10/mass-effect-2-m-29-incisor-rifle-part.html" target="_blank">previous project</a> from long ago.<br />
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I actually made two of them, before sending one off to the client way back when. Of course my skills had improved since carving that thing out three years ago, so I decided to revisit a few things and clean up some detail so I could mold it. This would serve as the base for the N7 valiant.<br />
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I used styrene to make the sharp beveled edges back here.<br />
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As you can probably see, there were a lot of flaws to deal with, as well as a lot of hollow areas that needed to be clayed up before molding.<br />
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First pass of bondo.<br />
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When that was done, the deep panel in the grip was clayed up, as well as the outside of the gun. I use MDF jigs to help save time on molding, as well as get really precise molds.<br />
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I brushed on about 6 layers of silicone and trimmed the excess.<br />
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Then I used Smooth-on's plasti-paste for the jacket. this is the jacket cured, the part flipped over, and the Jig removed.<br />
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Mold release, repeat steps.<br />
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The scope had to be re-made, I didn't have an extra. This was fine, I needed to re-make it anyways to be more mold friendly. The rear half of the scope is simply a <a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2012/01/mas-effect-2-m-96-mattock-heavy-rifle.html" target="_blank">mattock</a> scope, minus the eye shade. I didn't take molding pictures, just the prep shot. </div>
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The mold churned out some really nice casts, considering the complexity of the part!<br />
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High-tech illustration of finished product below.<br />
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As you can see, the stock is drastically different than the M-29 cousin. I cut two of these at once.<br />
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This is actually three layers cut at different angles, then glued together and beveled.<br />
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Lining things up.<br />
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I hacked off the top strip of MDF and added this sliver of PVC pipe.<br />
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Comparison of old VS new. Added PVC to the bottom as well.<br />
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Bit added to bridge the PVC, plus some fairly obvious layering.<br />
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Prepped up.<br />
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Using templates. I have to cut these pieces separate because they have beveled edges.<br />
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The straight cuts take a lot of patience.<br />
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These slots go at the end of the outer barrel.<br />
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The inside channel of this part had to be the exact width of the PVC pipe that was going to sit in there. Otherwise, problems with molding would occur.<br />
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Some more progress. There's a front site on there for some reason, which cant even me remotely seen from the back of the rifle. I dunno. I didn't design the thing. Sure looks cool though. By the way, this is a modular design so that resin kit parts can be shared. The un-primed portion can slide right out at this point.<br />
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Molding wise, this is a tricky area that will have to be resolved carefully with clay.<br />
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Some progress on the lower tube. This is from the M-29, and will be shortened.<br />
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Somehow, I did this whole area in MDF last time. This time though, I couldn't manage and took a shortcut. I'm getting old.<br />
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Prepped for molds.<br />
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I re-use extra silicone or silicone from dead molds. Make sure there's no mold release, cut it up, and mix it into your later layers of silicone. Works great and saves money.<br />
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Perfect!<br />
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I skipped all of the smaller parts in this post. I didn't take photos, and everyone likes the big stuff anyways.<br />
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First receiver pull. Shame this is going to get hacked to death.<br />
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I had to hack off the area behind the grip, as well as shorten the butt end. Don't worry, she'll get her curves back soon. </div>
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I covered the holes with styrene, then slushed more resin behind it to reinforce the structure.<br />
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The area under the trigger guard is shortened.<br />
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Then beveled, to say.... I don't remember......26 degrees? wild guess?<br />
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More styrene, once again reinforced with resin on the inside.<br />
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On the top side of this little nub, some modifications had to be made to convert this M-29 nook into an N7 receiver.<br />
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I have a well-fitting insert out of MDF.<br />
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It was tricky to retrofit the part as well as line up the panels, but it was done.<br />
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It was then cast in resin (Both sides) and inserted/sanded flush. I used styrene to cover the small gap on the outside, but, yes, bondo will do for you sanding fanatics.<br />
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Last bit of details. I added on these slivers of MDF to some cast parts. Honestly, these are my favorite parts on the gun. They bridge the stock to the receiver and just have a cool shape.<br />
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Basecoat and some minor details. I used a flat metallic. Picky stuff, but well worth the look.<br />
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Entendu. Off to France.<br />
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As always, thanks for following along!<br />
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">Zprops on Facebook</a>zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-11669492877364117892013-07-30T15:49:00.001-07:002013-07-30T15:49:11.112-07:00Starcraft II Terran Command Center Part 3 of 5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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With the bulk of the assembly mapped out, I could focus on refining the assemblies and doing general detailing/paneling. The only major construction left was the underside. This had to be left for last, as the plan was to have a panel that drops down from the bottom, for access to the custom mounted motherboard, power supply, etc.<br />
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I did a <i>really</i> lose fit to see how much room I had to play with.<br />
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If you look closely, you can see that this part has some really large corners sticking out. In the game model, they "clip" into the models of the individual feet. Instead of attempting the giant headache of how the corner of a rectangular prism (with a draft angle on it) would intersect the bottom of the corner assembly + the knee joint at a 45 degree angle, I decided to completely avoid the issue all together and leave a small space between the parts. I'll just call it artist's discretion.<br />
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It got refined a bit into this, but I couldn't lob off the corners until I knew exactly how far the feet spaced.<br />
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The front and rear slivers of MDF were glued to the frame of the command center to help frame the center part. The center part is the part that is removable and holds the motherboard, etc.<br />
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Next it came time to tidy it up. These panels proved quite difficult to measure with all of the angles going on. On the bright side, the ramp keyed up perfectly!<br />
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The tiny little underside areas were carefully filled with sheet styrene. This is near the thruster housing.<br />
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With the underside mostly sealed up, I could get back to some sub-assemblies. The thrusters are the defining part of the rear, so I wanted to get those done next.<br />
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Sort of like the feet, I went slice by slice, beveling and sanding before assembly. I did the main thruster first.<br />
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The lines were done with just an exacto and the folded edge of sandpaper. </div>
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The rounded taper on the end was just done with a sanding drum on the dremel.<br />
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Some more progress on the housing, as well as trying out the new thruster! looks imposing. In game, the inside of the thruster tapers in and has some cool details, but since this is the port for the main exhaust fan, I did a straight cut to accommodate the largest amount of airflow possible.<br />
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The little guys were next.<br />
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Looks like cheesecake....<br />
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I used to use a drafting compass for this sort of thing, but realized a sheet metal one was much better as I could simply grind the line I wanted to cut. If I scribe it deep enough, it actually helps guide the scroll saw blade around the circle for a cleaner cut.<br />
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Cut and beveled.<br />
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Getting excited. Some bondo and filling the empty space should do the trick. There's so much chipping on the game model that I decided to avoid that entirely and thus made these stick out about .5"-.75" more than they should. Accuracy suffers a bit, but I avoided some huge headaches!<br />
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But, if you know me, then you should know that I hate Bondo. I use styrene to fill gaps instead. Its a bit tedious, but I absolutely hate sanding more than I need to, and this creates a <i>much</i> stronger bond between the parts than Bondo.<br />
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For the holes though, I have to take the plunge and get out the can, which brings me to the front. These little guys are some of the last cosmetic fabrication. I had to plane down the front panels first though.<br />
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The little brackets in the front were measured out before the sanding took place. This is just time management, I wanted the parts to bathe in primer while I did the sanding on the front. When you do this for a living, you'll be scrounging up ways to save time as often as possible!<br />
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since the corner assemblies are mirrored casts, it was only fitting that I mirrored these panels before finishing them off completely.<br />
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Measuring and getting the cuts this flush was work.<br />
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That's because every cut is beveled to some weird degree.<br />
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They were detailed with styrene, and slapped on there!<br />
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Getting close to done here. Time to cast the rest of the feet!<br />
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This pile was just <i>begging</i> to be put together. Its really rewarding seeing all of your casts come together for the first time, after hours of prep work. The thrusters were not cast, they were simply there for show.<br />
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Before Throwing everything together, there was some misc. detail here and there that needed attention.<br />
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The little slotted round parts above have a tiny blinking LED in them, so I needed room for that to show.<br />
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The detail on the right is cut out to have a small temperature screen that displays the general case temperature.<br />
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I think that's enough technical jargon, here's the result of all that hard work!<br />
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<i>Scale insert sponsored by Coca-Cola. </i></div>
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Here's a couple shots of the innards. While being in the early stages, the rig is actually quite stable and not a whole lot of changes will be made for the final version. The first picture is the MDF frame before it went in the case. It looks like a headache, but its actually not that bad.<br />
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The motherboard sits at about 110 degrees vertical, as it is too tall!<br />
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Video here! (Might want to turn your sound down, sorry 'bout that!)<br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-38620262331929480762013-07-15T10:51:00.000-07:002013-07-15T10:51:28.061-07:00Starcraft II Terran Command Center Part 2 of 5Where were we....<br />
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The front door of the command center is the only part of the command center that actually "works" when it lifts off. By that I mean it is the only part that doesn't "clip" into the body or disappear/appear from nowhere. Originally, I wanted the option to go back and add a "partsforming" function to the command center by swapping the straight leg assemblies with an extra set of ones that are curved in for lift off. A functioning ramp was really all that survived of the liftoff idea, as the legs simply "clipped" into the body too far.<br />
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Instead of a conventional hinge, I decided to use a small brass rod that went through the door posts to allow them to swivel.<br />
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I then went about making the ramp itself, dry fitting some paneling to test the general size/spacing.<br />
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With the pattern decided upon, I dremeled tiny notches for the brass rods and glued them in. Afterwards, these rods would be sandwiched with more MDF to be very sturdy.<br />
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At this point, there was no going back as far as the hinge assembly goes.<br />
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The rest was just refining the ramp. There is a slight kink in the design, which is why I decided against laminating a munch of flat sheets. Also, with a hollow, lighter weight it will stay closed much easier.<br />
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I had to be sure the ramp wasn't too wide, to deep, etc. or it would interfere with other parts and have to be trimmed, or more importantly, wouldn't be able to close. Luckily, it all worked out perfectly in the end.<br />
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Until I had the bottom of this thing done, I couldn't go much further and started the next assembly.<br />
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I decided to start on what I ended up calling the "side modules". they protrude on each side of the command center and while having complex bevels and subtle tapering, don't really have as much detail as the rest of the command center until you get into the little channels on them. They are exactly the same on each side, and typically I would mold them so I didn't have to do it twice. However, I decided just to tough it out and make the two from scratch and save myself some silicone.<br />
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I made a template, and traced out the sets for both sides. These would get laminated together, and then cut since they had a pretty specific thickness.<br />
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You can see here how the outside layers are the larger, thinner layers while the inside layers are thicker but more minimal. I made considerations like this with anything I could that was MDF and wasn't going to end up being replaced with a plastic cast.<br />
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I started making the skin around the modules, with the "channel" already cut out. The module tapers in ever so slightly so I installed the spacers in the important areas first to gauge the size and angle of the taper.<br />
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The skins have recessed areas for the channel, but also two panels that have the Raynor logo on them and draw a lot of attention. therefore, I needed the beveling of said areas to be as clean as possible. I spent a lot of time drafting these out and calculating the taper as it wrapped around the module.<br />
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The skins were cut, re-glued, and beveled to match the frame.<br />
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Some times I use styrene for small bevels. The paneling was made to match, and comes off easily for painting and will also serve as an access panel later on.<br />
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I cut the logos out using the same method as before.<br />
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The details in the channel were drafted out on a piece of styrene, then it was lightly glued to another piece, then cut at the same time on a scroll saw.<br />
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The result is two perfectly symmetrical parts.<br />
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I decided to do the first pass of primer and a light sand before installing the modules.<br />
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The corners and feet needed to be completed before the thruster housings and underside paneling could be started. Reason being that I didn't expect perfect symmetry down to the hundredth of an inch when all of the cast parts came together! Im ambitious but lining all of these guys up one after another in XYZ space was nearly impossible to get perfect.<br />
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the knee was a pretty standard two part mold, utilizing and MDF jig method I've been tuning since early last year.<br />
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I throw in pieces from old/failed molds for box molds like these.<br />
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The corner assembly was pretty straight forward as an open face mold. Only problem was because it was a brush on mold, it would need a hard jacket. For this I used plasti-paste from smooth on. There are three massive undercuts, so a hard jacket would lock the part in. The part would then need to be destroyed to get it out of the mold. Then, the jacket could be taken off the silicone, and cut into sections as keys. Since I was in a hurry I didn't want to make a bunch of MDF dividers and do separate applications of plasti-paste.<br />
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This is unfortunately what had to happen to make the mold. Good thing it came out okay!<br />
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First two corner casts!<br />
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You may have noticed a lot more detail on the command module. All of that was just hand cut styrene.<br />
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Anyways, a lot of these were lightly glued in place to test fitment, then pulled apart. The little marks where the old super glue remained were what I used as reference to made adjustments.<br />
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This served as a very critical support piece, as these parts pulling on the MDF side modules aren't as strong as gluing resin to resin. It was also cut out later to support the graphics card sticking out of the top.<br />
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The command module has some strange intersections and it was a little tricky dremeling it to fit nice and flush and still be easily removed.<br />
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Being somewhat satisfied, I started playing with casting the feet.<br />
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I wasn't very happy with the lower halves of the foot castings, so I used to the top halves of the casts and mounted them to the bottom halves, which were hollow and completely scratch built. It took a good 2 days to fix that error, but the results are nice.<br />
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Now that the shell is mostly mapped out, I can close the gap by outlining the thruster housings, which also serve as frame support.<br />
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<i>Simple, right?</i></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1929_zpsd9e3970d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1929_zpsd9e3970d.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Not as simple.</i></div>
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I hacked away all of the plastic back here except for a few slivers for the MDF frame to glue on. I needed to save weight as well as allow air flow from the fans. This is where the exhaust fans are going. We'll see those engines mounted up next time, with some electronics in there!<br />
<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-5303083701121399102013-07-09T13:44:00.001-07:002013-07-09T13:50:34.392-07:00Yoko Ritona's Sniper Rifle V2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While I typically don't post the same prop build twice, (or even accept to build the same prop twice) this one varies enough from my v1 rife to warrant its own post. (Sort of like the Bryar pistol ordeal) It's <a href="https://www.facebook.com/OfficialJessicaNigri" target="_blank">Jessica Nigri's</a> fault. She talked me into it.</div>
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Like before, I used <a href="http://blindsquirrelprops.com/" target="_blank">blindsquirrel's</a> plans since they are still the best ones on there. Here's a reference for you unfamiliar with the prop. This is the most common request I get in terms of anime props.<br />
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<a href="http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu226/trendkilleraine/Prop%20Progression/Sniper%20Rifle%20YOKO%20LITTNER/Konachancom-29315tengen_toppa_gurren_lagannwhiteyoko_littner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="510" src="http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/uu226/trendkilleraine/Prop%20Progression/Sniper%20Rifle%20YOKO%20LITTNER/Konachancom-29315tengen_toppa_gurren_lagannwhiteyoko_littner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Lucky for you guys, I took <i>many</i> more pictures on this one than my version 1 build.<br />
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I started with the main body (never start with an accessory, or your scale factor might go way off if you don't have a set of blueprints sorted out)<br />
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I used a dremel with a grinding bit to do the ports. Unlike my V1, this one has an open breech, on top of the slide for the bolt.<br />
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There are some other special features that I'll get to later, but it also required an open port in the magwell. More grinding. I didn't use any guides, just some masking tape, a steady hand, and lots of practice.<br />
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It looked pretty cool on its own with all of the slots<br />
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I made the stock the same as last time, since It worked well and is hollow.<br />
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Magwell. .25" MDF cut to the contours of the pipe. </div>
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Grip. I use tons of super glue for structural bonds of MDF since it seeps a bit better than wood glue. This is a rather fragile intersection.<br />
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The scope rings needed to be nice and tight. I couldn't screw them in from the underside, as the fasteners on the inside of the tube would interfere with the sliding bolt.<br />
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Like any scope, there are sections that taper. I made these out of MDF, with a PVC pipe running through the whole assembly for support.<br />
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For the cylindrical parts of the scope, I had to make a concentric spacer to hold the PVC support rod.<br />
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If I'm careful, everything lines up because of the concentric relations.<br />
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Test fit.<br />
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Magazine. I had to make this slightly on the loose end of tolerances, so that when the paint and primer build up, it makes a perfect, friction held fit. (I wasn't making a mag catch.) The basic shape was rather easy to block out.<br />
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I liked Blindsquirrel's method of making the slits in the magazine with a table saw, but alas , I do not own one! Enter styrene. The floor plate is just MDF.<br />
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Coming together. I started priming the scope because the exposed edges of MDF need a lot more time to dry.<br />
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While that sat, I began the flash hider. No drill press, so these holes are cut on a scroll saw.<br />
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Each piece is cut at 30 degrees. (360 degrees divided by 12 mating edges.) the styrene is acting as a spacer for the barrel opening insert that goes in later.<br />
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The tapered bit was made the same way as the scope bits, with less drastic of an angle.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1587_zpse614e30d.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1587_zpse614e30d.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Her'es the flash hider insert. Its plated with styrene to look clean.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1624_zps6afaaae2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1624_zps6afaaae2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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More priming. The dowel is around an inch, which simplt has a .325" ring pinned through it as well as the flash hider at the end.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1618_zps005d7c80.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1618_zps005d7c80.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The tip of the receiver uses a sliver of a plastic weaver mount to slide the bipod on and off.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1634_zps091347e9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1634_zps091347e9.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I refined the scope a bit by putting the beveled inserts at the openings.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1628_zpsd859d64b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1628_zpsd859d64b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And, some anime accurate lenses that actually rotate! The slightly domed bits are sections of a ping pong ball.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1633_zps6251bb89.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1633_zps6251bb89.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The bolt is just some detail added to the end of a PVC pipe, that is inserted in the opening of the buttstock. It was important to paint everything before install. <br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1640_zpscbc91c27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1640_zpscbc91c27.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Painted bolt. I made a mock round, as well. A real sniper round wouldn't look anything like this, but since its an anime I made it a little cartoony.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1644_zps9c3cff07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1644_zps9c3cff07.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Last up was the bipod. I used the same one as last time, which I <i>swear</i> was made for this gun.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1655_zps6b9ea12a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1655_zps6b9ea12a.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Time to seal that bolt up. The back of the buttstock was coated in super glue, then sanded, laminated with styrene to cover the opening, and painted to match. At this point, if there was a problem with the bolt fitment or it got stuck, there was no going back.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1657_zpsa10f8c26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1657_zpsa10f8c26.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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This is gonna be suhweeeeet you guys.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1647_zps15b1bb28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/DSCN1647_zps15b1bb28.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Cloudy day + upped exposure + matte finish = shots that look computer rendered!<br />
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This first bit is my favorite part of the prop. a working bolt/magazine, and a round that actually chambers completely!<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/v2yoko2_zps4564392e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="414" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/Yoko%20Ritona%20Sniper%20V2/v2yoko2_zps4564392e.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Thanks for following! For a heads up on these projects, check the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">Facebook</a> page.<br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-40895594492040344012013-06-28T17:05:00.001-07:002013-06-28T17:06:07.125-07:00Starcraft II Terran Command Center Part 1 of 5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
"Do you still play that Starcraft game you used to play in 4th grade?" asked a middle school friend I hadn't seen in a while. Wasn't the first time I heard something pertaining to both Starcraft/me in my early days. Starcraft/Brood war was my first love, and had a big impact on me</div>
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<a href="http://www.learnhowtoplaygames.com/images/Starcraft%20-%20Brood%20War%20cd%20cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://www.learnhowtoplaygames.com/images/Starcraft%20-%20Brood%20War%20cd%20cover.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I played it to death, never really got better at it over the years, but oh lawrd was it fun. After seeing the cinematics, especially this one: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6bVj-nTkiU" target="_blank">Mengsk's inauguration</a> (which has kicked the crap out of any presidential inauguration to this day!) I decided I <i>must</i> have a battlecruiser replica someday.<br />
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Middle school rolled around, and we had to take some sort of trimester program that consisted of cooking, woodshop, and computer technology. (which is just a fancy name for frontpage, powerpoint, etc.)<br />
When woodshop rolled around and the class was nearing completion, we had to pick a final project from a very short list of class examples. (I cant remember exactly what they are, but I think one of them was a lathed egg. Fascinating.)<br />
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Oh <i>hellllll nah. </i><br />
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Our teacher was very strict, and clearly enjoyed it. So I built a Terran battlecruiser in smaller sections, trying to avoid the eye in the sky. (I was so happy when we had a substitute for one of the days who didn't really know what was going on. I went hog wild)<br />
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It wasn't amazing, (It was a short course in middle school. No, I don't have any pictures of it. I didn't have a camera back then.) but the fit/finish was decent and was considerably more work than anyone else had churned out. He of course lectured me about "directions" (yeah, I follow those!) and gave me a C. I considered my fan art journey unfinished, and it left a bad taste in my mouth about taking courses to pursue your passion.<br />
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Fast forward a gazillion years later to 2010, and Starcraft II came out after Blizzard saying it would never happen! I immediately fell in love with the new command center, and in 2011 emailed an old high school friend who ended up at Blizzard doing 3D art for the games. I wanted a perfect reference to make this command center as accurate as possible. I also purchased a cheap, but somewhat capable desktop that I was going to integrate into the command center. Disclaimer: This isn't my first command center... errrr..... ......rodeo....whatever they say. <i><br /></i><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SClego_zps6a53483b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="542" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/SClego_zps6a53483b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;"> (I'm 12 here. And yes, I was the cool kid at skoo')</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">My request got lost in the ages.</span></div>
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I was on my own, and when I finally had the time/skills/money/resources I set out to do this , hopefully finishing around the second installment of Starcraft II, Heart of the Swarm. (March 2013) I had planned on a two month build. This was not made to be cast or sold, as many of my previous projects had been, this was "my baby". Possibly my longest anticipated project ever, to boot. So it had better be damn near perfect.</div>
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I made my blueprints, which are always screenshots. (I don't get this illustrator trend with blueprints!) The contour lines aren't hidden or anything in the screenshots.....Photoshop, scaling, and grid rulers FTW!<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/cc_zps453f4228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/cc_zps453f4228.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The problem here of course, is distortion. So, when I measured things I had to add or subtract 5-10% of the dimensions according to distortion to get things as accurate as possible. There's no formula for this, Just a lot of time in perspective/drawing class will help you scale things. I'm certainly not perfect, but its a start!<br />
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I won't drone you anymore with how I decided to scale the thing. But since it wasn't a 1:1 prop, there was no "accurate" size it needed to be. Just large enough to fit all (or the most essential) computer components I wanted inside it. I decided on roughly a 22" x 22" footprint.<br />
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Since the knee joint is circular, I decided to tackle it first. Also, by being circular I could align all of the views in relation to the width of the knee joint, and should be the same width at any view. Not owning a lathe or having access to one meant that it was going to be a pain, and I wanted to get it over with.<br />
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Materials: (up until casting) Styene. MDF. Not a drop of anything else.<br />
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I figured the channel in the middle of the knee was a good place to start, along with the 1/8th inch beveled bits that transition into the wider parts of the knee. (all MDF was cut on a scroll saw. No routers, no guides, ain't nobody got time for that. Word of advice though, don't try to cut a perfect circle as your first cut.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1696_zpsaf9ca7ae.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1696_zpsaf9ca7ae.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>knee channel </i></div>
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It gets old, but when you cant find a certain thickness of something, you have to laminate other thicknesses and do it yourself. Sometimes I coat the surfaces in varying thicknesses of styrene to get a really accurate thickness. These are laminated together and cut as one. Cutting two circles separately and <i>then</i> laminating them can be tricky.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1697_zpsad9d6e4c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1697_zpsad9d6e4c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>laminating materials</i></div>
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After the thicker circles were cut, the ends of the cylinder start to taper -and- have 4 tapered notches spread out evenly. Using dem maths, I drafted out the notches and cut them at the same bevel as the outside of the circle. I used an exacto and a small detail file to clean them up. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1698_zps8babb012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1698_zps8babb012.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Dem geometry classes come in handy! </i></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1699_zpsbb664254.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1699_zpsbb664254.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1702_zps6eff801a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1702_zps6eff801a.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Purdy.</i></div>
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I made two of them, and then glued them to the aforementioned "thicker circles"</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1704_zps3b0be54c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1704_zps3b0be54c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Stack o' MDF</i></div>
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The next layer of beveled circles are just a hair smaller in diameter than the ones with the notches.</div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1710_zpsff0d898f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1710_zpsff0d898f.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>foot assembly blocked out</i></div>
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Here's an example of putting a few of the previous steps together. The "endcaps" were made by cutting the circular ring out of styrene, then laminated to the square detail piece made from 1/8th" MDF, then laminated to a thicker scrap of MDF, and then beveled at the same angle but smaller diameter as the previous beveled circle. So that makes 3 steps of beveled circles on each side, for a total of 6. They had to be near perfect too, the human eye can see defects in circles very very easily. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1713_zps9d794fc7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1713_zps9d794fc7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Some of these parts can not be done on a lathe.</i></div>
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I putt off the next step for a good 15 minutes. I was not looking forward to cutting bits out of a sheet of styrene and manually spacing them at the correct angles around a circle. Now, you may be asking "Not all of the knee shows. Its about 1/3rd hidden. Why are you detailing the whole thing?" Because this part was going to be the master for a cast, I figured having the thing detailed all the way around would allow me to hide the most bubbled sections of the cast, and use the better parts of the cast as the parts that show. If I only detailed 2/3rds of it, I would have no options. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1716_zpsdb1b6c6c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1716_zpsdb1b6c6c.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Funnn!</i></div>
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I use super glue and styrene dust as bondo for small cracks. Finished up the strips and sanded/filled the little imperfections. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1718_zpsedea8ea2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1718_zpsedea8ea2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>The dark spots are dried/sanded super glue. </i></div>
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Using nearly the same process as the knee, I blocked out the notches in the foot. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1709_zps0a5d326b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1709_zps0a5d326b.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>This ended up being a waste of time. More on that later.</i></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1720_zps9963fefd.jpg?t=1369934878" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1720_zps9963fefd.jpg?t=1369934878" width="480" /></a><br />
<i>End of day 1. </i><br />
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The Photos are a bit lacking for the rest of the foot, but you can see here I simply made a curved cut out of a 1/2 inch piece of MDF at a 13 degree bevel or so, then cut the "ridge" out of 1/8th inch MDF and did the smaller details with styrene for the toe.<br />
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I started the drafting for the small details and panel lines as well. I used the intersection of the lighter and darker MDF as a guide for one of the panel lines. They were scribed with an exacto knife, then sanded out with a folded piece of 220 grit sandpaper.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1727_zpse5a4d907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1727_zpse5a4d907.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<i>Once I saw the size of the nearly completed foot, I realized what I was getting into. </i></div>
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<i>The inner styrene circle is the diameter of a coke can. </i></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">With the scale set in place and a nice physical reference of the knee, I could start the "shrouds" that surround it. I used the top view of the reference to cut the first piece. It got a but tricky from there. Without a "straight on" shot of the panels, it took many many views to measure out the 4 angles this piece breaks up into. </span></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1728_zps5600527e.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1728_zps5600527e.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>I usually use 1/4" for structure, but this piece was going to be cast and 1/8th is easy to cut/sand/glue.</i></div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1729_zps9a89814a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1729_zps9a89814a.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>It helps to draft a visualization and test fit the angle before actually cutting it. </i></div>
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This part was a bit tricky. I had to hope that the part was the correct width, angle, etc so that when I cut out the intersection for the knee joint, it matched the reference and didn't sit too high or low. It ended up sitting a but high, so I later moved it down and filled the gap with styrene. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1731_zpsc6761dac.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1731_zpsc6761dac.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>The knee really does dwarf a coke can. </i></div>
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The next part was a little "hat" that sits above the shroud. these had to be perfect, as they get "projected" and copied 4 times around the command center. If they were even a degree off in any of the angles, It would show since they all sit at 4 evenly spaced and opposite facing orientations. I started with the beveled details, measured out some triangles, and dremeled/sanded away. I made an angled cut at the bottom that was a bit tricky to measure. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1732_zps8d08bf23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1732_zps8d08bf23.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Styrene was used to give the part a little more thickness/depth. </i><br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1733_zps90f12693.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1733_zps90f12693.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>The styrene ended up being a huge help in keeping track of the angles. </i></div>
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<i>You can easily tell the sanding is not straight in this stage because of the wonky styrene line.</i></div>
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Some styrene, sanding, and time in front of the TV left me with this by the end of the day. </div>
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1734_zps2138f61a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1734_zps2138f61a.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<i>At this point I felt like I was roughly a quarter done. I knew I wasn't, but that's</i></div>
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<i>what it felt like!</i></div>
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By this point, I was pretty sick of looking at these parts and decided to detail them between other stages. If you pay attention to the "test fit" pictures of this in the following posts, you can see bits of detail added here and there. </div>
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With me (and a lot of makers) I have a habit of not finishing something 100% before moving onto the next stage.<br />
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With that said, I made no effort to break the habit and started on the command module. This was the most tricky part to scale, as the distortion was the heaviest out of all of the parts in the references. I just did my best and started drafting.<br />
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I could have printed out a template to trace, but it would have the distortions mentioned. I just went old school and drafted out the top of the command module as well as the little "ears" on the sides, accounting for distortion.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1735_zpseb249d6a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1735_zpseb249d6a.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Then I cut out the bulk of the areas that need to be cut out, making it much easier to line up the scroll naw blade with the little detail areas.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1736_zpsbcbbe6b7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1736_zpsbcbbe6b7.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Practice practice!<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1738_zps71ebda22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1738_zps71ebda22.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The same was done for the "ears"<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1740_zps81756fe6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1740_zps81756fe6.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This is what I do when I don't want to wait for wood glue to try, I don't have any leftover clamps, or I don't want to babysit the part and wipe away the excess wood glue in the detail areas as it slowly seeps out. I use trusty old super glue, and spread it with a small piece of styrene to reduce high spots and make the glue go farther. (you'll eat up super glue like crazy using this method, but it is the strongest, fastest, and most consistent bond.) You have to do each side much like contact cement, then sand it down , and do a final glue. It will bond instantly, so made sure you have your stuff lined up perfectly.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1741_zps66d461d8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1741_zps66d461d8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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With the roof of the command module laminated, I can draft out the outline and cut the shape as one.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1744_zps4067a956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1744_zps4067a956.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I had to cut the pretty looking roof into 3 sections, then taper the edges to make the bends in the roof.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1746_zps1ddd64c2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1746_zps1ddd64c2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Plan stuff early! Here I need a hollow area in the roof to account for the top most panel, which doubles as the power switch. With the roof in sections, it was easy to cut out before assembly.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1747_zps1f99000a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1747_zps1f99000a.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The button was made using the same principle as the roof.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1750_zps283e0fa3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1750_zps283e0fa3.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Next was the sides. Here's an example of how I keep track of bevel angles when I need to make a mirrored, symmetrical version of a part. It is flipped over, traced onto the MDF, and the opposite side is cut.<br />
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Some progress on the ears.<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1759_zps0731f9c8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1759_zps0731f9c8.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If it doesn't look to pretty, don't get discouraged. You'd be surprised at how nice this stuff cleans up.<br />
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Jumping around a bit, I decided to do some paneling above the front door while the method used for the roof was fresh.<br />
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Starting to see a pattern here?<br />
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Took a little progress shot here to motivate myself. This is after tediously sculpting the front face of the command module using styrene, a nice pair of ergonomic fiskars, and an exacto blade + metal ruler for scoring the styrene.<br />
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Behind the "ears" there is another set of.... ears! they also have a fair amount of detail. Nearly cut my finer off doing these on the saw.<br />
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This is the basis for the lower half of the front paneling. It was also cut into sections, laminated, and glued at angles.<br />
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this was the first logo I cut out. (By hand, just good ol' scissors and an exacto for clean up.)<br />
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More styrene details, and current progress of the front:<br />
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<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1797_zpse34d2d63.jpg?t=1370397918" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v359/zanderwitaz/SC2%20Terran%20Command%20Center/DSCN1797_zpse34d2d63.jpg?t=1370397918" width="480" /></a></div>
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"<span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 16px;">What is this? A center for </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: bold; line-height: 16px;">ants</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 16px;">? How can we be expected to teach children to learn how to read... if they can't even fit inside the </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; font-weight: bold; line-height: 16px;">building</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 16px;">?" - Derek Zoolander</span><br />
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-37084461318939195982012-10-09T17:27:00.001-07:002012-10-09T22:03:20.765-07:00Mass Effect 2 M-97 Viper Sniper Rifle<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: start;">Earlier This year I was contacted to make this thingie from Mass Effect II. (Something new and different, right?)</span></div>
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As always, thanks to <a href="http://troodon80.deviantart.com/" target="_blank">troodon80</a> for the reference picture.<br />
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Here's another shot with Garrus, which serves as a good scale factor. I scaled it to 42" long if I recall correctly.<br />
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This build was certainly more simple than the other guns I've done. But I was still sure to capture all of the details, especially in the barrel assembly and receiver areas. I definitely didn't care for the gun design initially but it grew on me. It follows the designs of the Mass Effect 1 guns to me. I'm honestly surprised at what a huge fan base this gun has in the game.<br />
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I was building this at the same time I was building my first mattock, so I didn't take many pictures as I focused on the mattock.<br />
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Anyways, here we go!<br />
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I started with the receiver details. I wanted to get these nice and crisp.<br />
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Then I did the little box details below that. Exciting stuff....<br />
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Little details on each side<br />
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Then I did the rest of the "flat pieces" before laminating them together.<br />
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Scope riser. I've seen a couple builds where people skip this piece entirely!<br />
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Hollowed stock<br />
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Glued on shrouds, etc<br />
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Started on the barrels. At this scale, the PVC worked out perfectly<br />
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The barrel details are pinned for strength and are all friction fit for removal when painting<br />
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Barrel coming together<br />
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Blocking out the stock<br />
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Early test fitting. Things get exciting here.<br />
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Stock roughed out and primed. Sanding this was great for my health.<br />
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Foregrip and trigger area sanded down. I used the rounded edge of a belt sander for this at my former school's shop.<br />
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The grip details. In retrospect, I should have drawn "penispenispenis" all over this volpin style. This pattern is true to the reference. Don't blame me.<br />
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Some beveling. All done with a scroll saw, routers are lame! (I use a scroll saw for everything. Some have speculated that I shave with it, cuddle with it, mow the lawn with it, cut my sandwiches with it. all are true.)<br />
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I cant remember which end of the scope this is. They're both different though.<br />
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Annnnd the other end.<br />
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All the parts, sans the little "bolt" part above the stock.<br />
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Primed up! (No easy feat with this much MDF)<br />
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My friend holding the gun with the basic "colors" mapped out. I got intimidated at this point and took a long break while I researched some good styles to weather silver. A lot of people recommend the acrylic wash and wipe, But I went with a completely different method. Hopefully you think it looks just as good.<br />
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(This is not me people.)<br />
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I taped up the black portions because I was smothering the silver areas in dullcote which I didn't want to get on the matte black. (there's a difference between flat, matte, and satin. )<br />
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This piece would have been a bit difficult, so I didnt use a scroll saw for it. For those wondering, its the "bolt" end. Charging handle. I'm not sure what its supposed to be really. The important thing is that we here at Zprops are equipped with the finest machines. Here is a picture using my wood lathe/sanding block.<br />
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#Cclamps #ghetto #wiredoncoffeetogetitdone<br />
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Tedious little inserts that fit into the receiver slots. they all had different width/curvature and had to be dremeled and numbered to fit. If I didn't mount them like this they would have blown all over the place from the spray can.<br />
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First time using a high end camera! It was nice.<br />
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For updates before write ups get posted here: <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">Ermagherd. Furrsebook purrge. </a><br />
<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-27415240092617898262012-08-13T01:18:00.001-07:002012-08-13T01:35:06.336-07:00Gundam Assault Carrier Spacecraft<br />
So, like, a long time ago (well it seems that way to me. hmph.) I went to college and majored in industrial design. I really wanted (still do) to be a toy designer or to be somehow connected to the collectibles market.<br />
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As you can imagine, I got pretty bored of the housewares and more mainstream stuff we were instructed to design there. So, for my graduation project (a two quarter project where we get to pick a design category and direction that we want) I chose to do something inspired by one of my favorite companies, Bandai.<br />
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The project was from start to finish: design goal > research > ideation > refinements > control drawings > presentation/final model.<br />
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This was long before I knew I would be doing props after college (or blogging about them at all) so I have no pictures as far as the "prop" itself goes. Speaking of which, I consider this to be a prop so here it is. Deal with it!<br />
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It was designed to go with Bandai's Gundam action figure/model kit line, as well as compliment other sets in the same line.<br />
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First things that popped into my head. </div>
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I really like the middle right one on page 3 but it would have been a bitch an a half to make a model of. </div>
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Some refinements and new aggressive shapes.<br />
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Chosen design direction<br />
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These are the features I wanted. I think it translated pretty well into the model, although I never finished those little magnetic bridges.<br />
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She sure do look purdy.<br />
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Slots and keys hold this together, as well as a bunch of tiny rare earth magnets. The production version would obviously utilize tabs.<br />
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This is the "cityscape" arrangement of the parts. Had I finished the bridges and made a few more of these, I could have had the ultimate geekfest. </div>
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Deets</div>
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-3401635082429290152012-08-07T18:21:00.001-07:002012-08-07T21:02:36.333-07:00Kyle Katarn's Bryar Pistol V2<br />
I was approached by (More like barraged by!) someone on the cosplay forums to make this for them.<br />
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He provided This as a reference:<br />
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Some of you may remember way back when I made <a href="http://zprops.blogspot.com/2011/05/kyle-katarns-bryar-pistol.html" target="_blank">this.</a> It was the first prop gun I ever made (If you don't count the sentry) It looks very similar to this one as they are supposed to be the same thing. but there are many conflicting sources on how this piece looks, and those sources themselves are scarce. Fans like Koda Vonnor and Arkos have had to fill in the blanks. This version is the Arkos version.<br />
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I very rarely build the same things twice, but since this doesn't share a single part with the first one, I decided to give it a go.
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Bare with me here. Most of my pictures for this build were taken on my cell phone. My cell phone isn't with us here today thanks to.... "neurological issues".<br />
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Luckily I snapped this picture in its raw material build up before primer. That should tell half of the story. The other half of the story is cutting out all fo those #@%$^@^ circle vent things and the spacers that go between them, all by hand. (I don't believe in the laser cutter yet have access to several)<br />
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Styrene, MDF, tubing. nothing new here.<br />
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Last time, the tip was made completely out of styrene. This time I cut out the tip and notches in MDF, then laminated both surfaces in styrene.<br />
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To get the organic lines above the grip, I called up my friend Bondo.<br />
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The reference didnt have grips, just a checker pattern on the handle. I added these because they would compliment the brown on the top of the gun.<br />
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Primed up<br />
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By alternating styrene and MDF circles laminated together, I would get much more precision than using a lathe for the top "heat sink" (Wasn't fun to sand though!)<br />
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Did the basecoat in black, then espresso brown for the top and grips.<br />
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Oops. Forgot about those countersunk screws... <br />
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One more for the books.<br />
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Till next time!<br />
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<a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">Facebook Page</a>zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622347517769507115.post-50682609260237569322012-07-21T20:07:00.001-07:002012-08-07T21:05:35.634-07:00Mass Effect 3 M-25 Hornet SMGSo, whatever photo deficiency there was in the last post was, this one will more than make up for it. Sorry if you have 56k!<br />
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I started this sometime after PAX, and worked on it in-between commissions. Then I did a flood of progress while waiting for silicone for another project.<br />
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This is my favorite SMG from all of the mass effect guns so I wanted to give it a go.<br />
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The reference I used was provided generously by this dood: <a href="http://troodon80.deviantart.com/" target="_blank">link to dude.</a><br />
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Here's the concept shot. I'd like to thank Brian Sum from Bioware for the dimensions.<br />
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Complex bevel: 45 degrees to 30 degrees to 20 degrees. No dremel involved!<br />
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Top rail beginnings<br />
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Side panel<br />
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Progress:<br />
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Did I mention the grip is friggin tiny? (yes, this is the correct size.)<br />
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Main body parts coming together<br />
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Middle layer<br />
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(note my ummm... "precise" inner drafting for the cuts)<br />
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Little recessed detail thingie with complex bevels around it.<br />
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Test fit<br />
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With removeable magazine action! Too bad it doesn't distribute beer.<br />
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Did the little bits near the barrel tip, as well as the barrel tip itself.<br />
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As well as the "spine" of the grip, and the bolt housing. You can see here that I deleted the bolt on the left side of the gun, despite there being two on the reference. Just didn't make sense and it bugs me.<br />
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Then I added a few details to the top rail, and enlarged some of the bevels using a dremel to take down the hard edges, and hand sanded 80 grit and 150 grit for the rest. It went rather fast, but I have the whole rest of the gun to go. There are a ton of fillets and bevels all over the place.<br />
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I used PVC to make the rounds on the rear of the "carrying handle" </div>
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Then the voids were covered in styrene.</div>
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Heres some kind of detail made carefully in styrene.</div>
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Finishing up the beveling on the front end: </div>
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More styrene details</div>
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The priming adventure</div>
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First pass, lookin good!</div>
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Just about done, I left the hard part for last. The little dimples on the sides, and the annoying little circular inserts</div>
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The dimples seem to angle in on a plain from the back, and turn into fillets as they meet the forward edge of the recess. I decided, of course, to use styrene. I made little risers, and then made little templates to cut the sheets. ( Want to play a fun drinking game? re-read this post and take a swig when you see the word "styrene")</div>
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To acheive the greatest mating surface area, I dremeled the little edge of the styrene to meet the angle it rests at. </div>
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Heres a view installed, looking down the side</div>
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Fun. </div>
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A few more passes. Did this on both sides, mind you. Kind of hard to keep the fillet constant. </div>
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You can hardly tell the dimple is there (1/8th inch deep, just like the design) but it was worth it. Heres a picture of the first screw plug insert. </div>
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Masking the grip. Getting much faster at cutting custom masking strips. </div>
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Orange stripe thingie. If you have one of these near your magwell, you might want to get it checked out. </div>
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Last circles cut out on a scroll saw, then sanded. The thin styrene ring was dremeled. </div>
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I've never seen the top of the magazine removed, and I think mass effect guns fire conventional rounds nowadays so I decided to have a modern looking magazine tip. (its removable) </div>
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I modeled it after an MP5. Styrene. </div>
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Stencil drafting</div>
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Painted and weathered. I took too much off this side, so I re-did it. </div>
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CAM aircraft lettering decal set. Works pretty good for the little stuff. </div>
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Done!</div>
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My friend <a href="http://www.facebook.com/KommissarProps" target="_blank">Kai</a> who goes by kommissar on the <a href="http://www.therpf.com/" target="_blank">Replica Prop Forum</a> connected me with <a href="http://www.facebook.com/SamaraME2" target="_blank">Rana McAnear</a>, who you might have seen around the cons dressed up as Samara. They modeled the in game character after her, so its as canon as it gets! I loaned her the hornet for a cross-promotion.</div>
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On the left is Corey Gaspur, lead combat designer of Bioware at sdcc 2012. The next day I shipped it to <a href="http://www.facebook.com/JarmanProps" target="_blank">Eric Jarman</a> so he can cast it and run around nekked with it. Man, everyone gets to enjoy it but me!<br />
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As always, follow me on <a href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Zprops/267422419967218" target="_blank">Facebook!</a></div>
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<br />zanderwitazhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00661262221400220783noreply@blogger.com9